Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Fri May 30, 2014 5:07 pm

DodgeFreak wrote:are you wanting me to figure out a shipped price for the fuel heater delete nipple or are you going to go a different route? I have a case dealer that's on my way home.....

Thanks I already fitted one from Hungry Diesel.
monoblock
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Sat May 31, 2014 1:53 pm

To conclude this mystery for the benefit of others who may have similar issues:
I suspect two culprits
1. The FSS because it did not operate with 12 v applied/removed in a bench test.The plunger,rubber tip and spring are in perfect condition -see photo.So I suspect the solenoid had insufficient(or no) power to pull the rubber tip off it's seat and there fore shut off/reduced fuel to the injector pump.Anyway the redundant parts have been gutted & preserved for the next owner. This FSS diagnosis is both uncertain and somewhat unhelpful because it is very difficult to remove the FSS without the correct tool.
I much prefer the manual shut off and will upgrade my through-the-grill rod(fitted by the local Dodge Dealer after the third FSS failed!)
I found a military surplus "ENG STOP" from Saturn Sales #109 38 437 - -$24 delivered. This will give a luxurious upgrade of an in-cab shut off!
The alternative part is from a Mitsubishi Fuso and has more fittings on it.That may make installation easier.But I could not find any reference to it being used in our trucks.The part # is MC082118 $25 on FleaBay.Or MC638299.Anyone tried this?
2.The KSB was dripping slightly after fitting the new 15psi pump.There were tell-tale signs it had been seeping for a while.I suspect this allowed pressure to bleed down .Whatever it is fixed with a 17mm box end wrench on the forward facing end of the KSB -just rearward of the radiator shroud.
I have changed/upgraded so many parts in the low pressure part of the fuel system that an accurate diagnosis can't be made.
Now onward to fit a Coolertubz intake with grid heater delete.
I hope theses comments are helpful to those who follow.
monoblock
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby Bob L » Sat May 31, 2014 3:58 pm

Hi Mono,

This thread has been very useful. Thanks for taking the time to document everything. Pictures and resources for parts and procedures extremely helpful. Thanks.
Bob L
NRA Life Member 1974
'92.5 D250 LE EXT.CAB...Getrag...All Original...No Rust...
Purchased new in late Oct.'92---128K Mi. Still Like New.
Bob L
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Sat May 31, 2014 4:04 pm

Bob,
Thank you,I am delighted it is useful.
I am trying to improve and simplify the truck so it becomes even more reliable. Although I have break-down coverage, many of the places I go to are inaccessible to a tow truck. The average tow truck mechanic would be unable to diagnose or repair our trucks so it is up to us to do as much as we can to prevent it happening.
I hope someone tries the Fuso shut off cable and reports back.
monoblock
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:58 am

I have been asked for details of how I did this job.To save band width ,I suggest using this link:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15883&p=148757#p148757
monoblock
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:34 pm

I fitted this Engine Stop from Saturn Sales so here are a few notes to encourage others:
"I found a military surplus "ENG STOP" from Saturn Sales #109 38 437 - -$24 delivered. This will give a luxurious upgrade of an in-cab shut off!
The alternative part is from a Mitsubishi Fuso and has more fittings on it.That may make installation easier.But I could not find any reference to it being used in our trucks.The part # is MC082118 $25 on FleaBay.Or MC638299."
I cut about 4" off the outer sheath.It fits & works well. It requires more fabrication than the Mitsubishi part appears to need because it has no fittings on the end of the cable.I moved the hood release over a little and fitted it to a diy bracket between the relocated hood release and the brake release.It looks sorta stock there. I haven't hit it with my giant boots getting in and out.The inner cable was kinda kinked near the handle but that is a good anti-theft device.If you don't push the Eng Stop back in firmly -the truck will not start! And it certainly does not just self-return .
As several others have noted, the FSS is difficult to remove with the injection(not lift)pump on the truck because access is so difficult. Cutting off the redundant part of the obstructing bracket is suggested in these prior posts. Without the special FSS tool I showed in a previous post ,I had no alternative but to cut off the useless ear. Regular crow-foot/flare,flex+flare, open or box end thin-wall wrenches did not fit around the bracket-as others noted also. I have all these tools because I usually work on Porsche/Jaguar.
So why is the offending injection pump bracket so needlessly large? I stumbled across a probable explanation for this bracket design .Care to guess it?
monoblock
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby jethro » Tue Jun 24, 2014 9:22 pm

FYI - I purchased a fuel shut-off cable for my ford tractor. Its a generic looking thing and come longer than needed (looks like) about 7 feet long. nicely made too.
you could use one off a Cessna airplane. They control mixture there- but they have a screw in/out outer knob which is a friction lock to keep control from creeping in or out in use.

After hearing how horribly unreliable the electric ones are- I may do a simple cable one too. I am going for high reliability and high fuel mileage.
Tim
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby Arnold Layne » Wed Jun 25, 2014 5:07 pm

I'm going to throw out all the tips I can about shut-off cables, and it won't take long! If you have a manual trans. get a locking cable and use it. If you leave it in gear without locking it "off" it is possible for someone to bump you and start the engine. I've had the FSS fail to start AND shut down while driving, but when it shut down it also took a fusible link with it.
Arnold Layne
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