Friggin Shopping List .. . .

[BC847]

I gotta replace the rear crankshaft seal. The cold engine drips every 30 seconds at idle. Certainly it's wept over the last few years, but this dripping is sudden.

Crap.

I gotta put together a shopping list for those little things needed to put it all back together.


Drain transmission. Will need:
- Internal filter and extension gasket (has deep pan).
- External spin-on filter.
- Tractor fluid.
- A little of the ATF4 fluid.
* Transmission hard-parts pending what's found in the pan.

Drop/remove the skid-plate and transmission cooler/filter crap.

Remove exhaust plumbing as needed.

Disconnect both front and rear drive-shafts. Will need:
- Universal-joint straps and bolts for the front drive-shaft (at the differential).
- Universal-joint straps and bolts for the rear drive-shaft (at the transfer-case yoke).

Separate/drop transfer-case. Will need:
- That gasket between the transfer-case and the transmission.

Drop transmission.

Remove flex-plate.

Replace rear crankshaft seal. Will need:
- I've got one of the "New and Improved" rear crankshaft seals that forum member terryblue2002 was selling a while back (actually two).


Then put it all back together using those materials listed above. Easy as hell.


What am I forgetting?

- The new seal I got from terry doesn't include a depth/squaring tool like the genuine Cummins seal kit. Anybody got any tricks to get around that successfully?
I've read I want to get it just inside the bevel in the socket it goes into. It needs to be dead-on square in it's socket. The improved seal is to be lubricated upon installation.

- The transmission stuff, at the worst should need no more than a refreshing: a hand full of clutch-discs and steels, thrust-washers, and a couple of seals. If I find the pan with the brass shavings like last time, then the thrust-washers will most likely need replacing . . . . . . again.

Suggestions? Parts sources? Tips? Rude comments?

Thanks guys.

[dazedandconfused]

I looked everywhere for that gasket when we did my old mans Ford and no one even knew what I was talking about. I just used the black permatex.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Subscribing so that I can learn about the new seal and hopefully NOT something about autos.


The gasket that goes between the trans and case..... I was able to get one through the Dodge dealership. The kicker was, I needed to look it up for a newer truck. They share bolt patterns and therefore are the same. IIRC I looked it up for a 2nd gen???????

[BC847]

Yeah, I ran into the same headache with the gasket too. Ultimately had to go to the dealer.

Found one here though: http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce ... &key=10519

If I'm not mistaken, I've actually got two of those gaskets installed in there now as I recall it seemed to leak with one.

They've got a lot of stuff for that transfer-case.


Eric, my transmission is a Frankenstein basket-case. While it is the OEM A518/46RH case, it runs a 2007 48RE rotating assembly . . with the 46RH input-shaft. All the shafts are the billet/alloy. All the planetary gear-sets are the 6-pinion with steel carriers. With the exception of the rear clutch-pac (In the 3-speed section) all the others, including the OD section have increased clutch/steel counts.

[ellis93]

BC....I actually spoke with Mr Terry on the phone before I bought my seal from him and in our conversation he made mention of using dowel rods to center that retaining ring. It was either 3 or 4 spaced 1/2 or 3/8ths rods.

[BC847]

At this point, I'm not planning on removing the retainer . . . if I don't have to. For the very reason you're eluding to: You've got to properly align/center the retainer if you take it off. There are procedures/tools available to replace the seal without removing the retainer. The gist of it is to pull the old seal with a dent puller, then use a stepped plate to press in the new seal using the flex-plate/flywheel bolts to pull it up. They set it square to the crankshaft, at the correct depth. But they're expensive at about $165.

But then again, I'd hate to have to pull it back apart to fix it .. . again. Still thinking about that one.

http://www.4x4tools.com/ts6000.html

[CumminsPower59]

I used one of those new style rear mains, I bought two just in case I screwed up putting it in. I pulled the old seal, lubed up the new one and gently drove it in with a block of wood. I can't remember what I used to get it further in, heck, I don't remember anything about a squaring tool or anything...all I do know is that it hasn't leaked.

[DMan1198]

My rear main was leaking, but not bad enough to do anything about it. Then my g360's counter shaft decided it wanted to go for a walk so we had to pull and rebuild it. Decided to do the seal while it was apart. Turned out the seal was actually in good shape, but something had gotten on it and caused the leak

[ellis93]

At this point, I'm not planning on removing the retainer . . . if I don't have to. For the very reason you're eluding to: You've got to properly align/center the retainer if you take it off. There are procedures/tools available to replace the seal without removing the retainer. The gist of it is to pull the old seal with a dent puller, then use a stepped plate to press in the new seal using the flex-plate/flywheel bolts to pull it up. They set it square to the crankshaft, at the correct depth. But they're expensive at about $165.

But then again, I'd hate to have to pull it back apart to fix it .. . again. Still thinking about that one.

http://www.4x4tools.com/ts6000.html

That's how I do it,dent puller,and it works. I was just commenting on aligning it,and the cheapo way I heard about. I'll be using it whenever it's time for mine to puke again.

[wilkyflex]

Does anyone know about when you install the rear main seal, do you use any sealing on the gasket between the seal plate and the block?

I put mine on using a red rubber sealant. i put it on, tightened the bolts, but then saw the main seal was crooked, so I took it off, stretching out all the rubber between the seal and the block. I ran my hand through it and fixed the main seal being crooked. Then I put it back on again, without putting any more sealant. The old sealant was dry but rubbery.

Should I pull it off again and put of some more sealant? or use no sealant at all. This is for the gasket between the block and the seal plate.

thanks
Dean

[lz69]

Figured I would toss this up here, video Terry made for installing his seal's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PurUSUxzL2A

[jethro]

just did my front and rear about 2 months ago.
My kit (from genos0 had a thin gasket the went between the aluminum retainer housing and the block. Thin coat of permatex #3 (like red head shellack) . Seal kit had a seating ring which you use to set the depth of how far down the seal is pushed in.
It also had a thin plastic ring which allows the seal to stretch over the crankshaft disk.

There is a similar kit for the front which also has the depth tool and the pusher ring- but I couldn't find that one. The dealer
(as usual) knew nothing about it !

T