Where's all the 5.9 air to water aftercoolers??

[JLeonard]

The goal should not be to circulate the water as fast as possible....remember that it needs time to transfer heat. If you move it too fast that won't happen.

[Fnschlaud4620]

I see where you are comming from, like a SBC with out the thermostat will run hot. You bring up a good pint and I need to do some research on this idea. All I was basing my thelogy off was what I learned when I was racing.

I do not think that this would be a problem at 10gpm but I am only guessing.

fnschlaud4620

[seeker1056]

Please explain your theroy in more detail.

thanks
fnschlaud4620

It is not a theory but a runnin workin system.

Next; - my system "does" have "ice" capability, if you read the post on its components in its entirety, and it "has" made less than ambient temps in both the water and the air.

This is why I am gettin so frustrated with bein told it doesnt or cant work for drags or dyno runs! cuz it already does work in worse situations like a road run!

I will repeat the components list for those that missed the first post: one bus, remote, under seat heater core assembly, with integral dual fan assemblies, ( 1' x 6" by 4' core) connected in series to a bus heater core (1' x 4" x 8" core) sitting/submersed, in an ice chest, to act as a secondary heat exchanger, and then a 12v bus water pump to cuirculate the chilled water to the intercooler.(4" x 4.5" x 10" core)

The iced cooled and fan cooled heat exchanger area's are approximately 15 times the heated area of the intercooler.

Without "ice", the system has never gone over 120 degrees under load.

[Fnschlaud4620]

OK sorry dude my BAD,

Sound like you are going to blow a head gasket!

Man if you know it works, why worry about what I think?

That is kinda like me saying that you should only eat mustard and you like ketchup better!

Its only an internet forum

[KTA]

Seeker I guess its your setup that had me confused as its drastically diffrent from mine. My truck will cruise 90mph at about 10psi of boost and intake temps of around 120deg with NO water in the aftercooler. If i was to turn my water pump on it would drop to about 80deg intake for a fairly long while. When I make a dyno run or drag pass my boost will see 80psi and pre cooler temps of 600-700deg depending on outside temps, but no more than 150 on a long run hot day post aftercooler. My truck is geared way faster and will turn in excess of 4200rpm, so I cant run full out. I have no doubt your cooler setup works, so will Bills, both systems are proven, yours just requires more parts, and more plumbing. Mercedes diesel cars have a nice little electric water pump on them too, but its kind of small, only 5/8". Yes I do actually have the dual pump shureflo rated at 7gpm on mine. The pull truck used to run a air to air followed by the water air to drop temps even more, it also has a 7gpm setup. I think spearco outlines their pump recomendations for their coolers on their page. I will have to look and see.

[seeker1056]

My apologies if i sounded like a blown gasket - Very nice analogy.

I never blow.

I just get frustrated from time to time and it may get the better of me once in awhile.

If I may be so bold as to disagree, It is not just a FORUM, it is the best information and bunch of guys out there!!

Bar none!

Thank you! for all that you each contribute!

[Fnschlaud4620]

My apologies as well, I have been known to be a smart ass from time to time.

Your right the purpose of this forum is to share info, not argue over who is right or wrong.

fnschlaud4620

[CAJUN 93]

OK, i feel a hug coming on . really though guys, keep up the discussion. i'm sure i'm not the only one whose following along with great interest. (albiet with no experience to add)

daryl

[bgilbert]

7GPM, oh great, now I'm gonna have to dual feed my aftercooler to get that, well close, 6gpm. I guess I'll have to try this 3gpm pump, do some testing. If I could ever get all my parts.

Seeker, not to sound smart butt, but maybe you are seeing such low intake temps because you aren't making any power?? I suppose at 300rwhp+- there ain't as much heat as at 600rwhp:?:.

As far as intended uses of selected pumps and parts, you should know of anyone that just because it says its for school bus use or RV water tank use doesn't mean it won't work for our applications. We as 1st genners should be thinking outside the box so to speak. I could care less if this part or that part started life on a Ford, Freightliner, or big rig etc. The 5.9 Cummins has been around longer than the marriage of Dodge and Cummins. It's been used in tons of applications. Just cause the parts books says it's not gonna work, doesn't mean it won't work. Now I know you are aware of this from your rig and setup. I'm just speaking for others that are reading and often ask the questions of "will this turbo fit" etc.

Now you guys leave Brian alone, I'm supposed to be the only one bugging him all the time with questions !

[bgilbert]

Well finally, it's all together. Looks factory too, didn't have to modify my throttle bracketry, or anything. The only thing I would've done differently would be to get a 45* angle 3" turbo elbow outlet instead of a 3" 90* elbow. With this 90 elbow you have to clock the compressor of the turbo where the outlet faces straight up instead of facing the aftercooler, where a 45 elbow would face. I already had someone build me the crossover pipe, so I had to work with what I had. Doing so allowed the hood to slightly contact the elbow and boot when closing the hood. With a 45 elbow this wouldn't be a problem. But with the 90, it's the highest point of the engine, even higher than the aftercooler. The aftercooler is a good inch or two from the bottom of the hood. Since this ain't no show and shine truck, out came the cutoff wheel and I did some surgery to the hood. Notched a section of one of the pieces that hangs down, not the exterior portion of the hood.

I picked this 90* 3" elbow up from my trusty junkyard. The only 45* elbow I could find was 3.5". The inlet of the aftercooler has the circumference of damn near 3" pipe. I gave my welder the option of using either one, I guess the 3" fit the inlet flange he built easier.

Now for the valuble R&D info... KTA....

I have a 16 gallon sprayer tank. I'm at the dyno event getting ready to go up on Dunbar's dyno, say an hour away. How much water should I start with before adding the ice? I'm making 'ice molds' by filling up these small loaf pans or cookie sheet pans whatever they're called. My tank has a 5" round opening and the 'ice molds' fit perfectly. Don't cost nothing and don't melt as fast a bag ice. I found this out during a test/tune run. Added 6 of the molds and about 10 pounds of ice to 8 gallons of water. Once all the ice was in there, it was probly up the 12 gallon mark of the tank. After one 50psi, 4th gear 3200rpm blast I stopped to check the ice out. ALL of the bag ice was melted and the molds were about gone. Did one more 50psi 4th gear pass, drove a couple blocks home and now all the ice was melted, but the water was still cold.

So I'm wondering how much ice per water I should run at the dyno event. Maybe just a little bit of water and fill the tank almost all the way up with ice?

[2001shrtbedcummins]

Wonder if adding salt would mess it up. Always helps our ice cream churn get colder. I also add alcohol to water in a ziploc bag to make an ice pack. The alcohol helps to keep it from freezing. So if you added alcohol instead of water and a crapload of ice maybe it might get colder and last longer. Looks like it might be time for a reefer unit eh?

[PToombs]

Reefer! AAAAAAAHHHHH!

[2001shrtbedcummins]

refrigerator unit you pothead...lol

[PToombs]

I knew that! I never inhaled anyway!

I under stand the salt thing, having done the ice cream deal, but I wouldn't want that salt water going thru my expensive cooler and stuff!

[2001shrtbedcummins]

thats what I was thinking with the aftercooler being aluminum and all. But the alcohol could help as well.