seperating rusted-together h1C housing.

[jethro]

Trying to loosen the connection on an H1C to re-clock oil inlet vs. exhaust flange. got the four clamping bolts loose.
@ removed and 2 loose. Have soaked in PB Blaster for 3 days- have heated exhaust side housing with heat gun up to about 250 F to try to make it expand off the core flange. No luck yet. Took 2 coupler nuts and matching bolts and made little
screw jacks to go between the 2 housing and push them apart- or at least exert some spreading pressure. Tried that with heat added- no movement yet.......
Someone suggested a pneumatic hammer to vibrate some part and shake it loose. not sure where it would be safe to apply that ??????

suggestions ?

Tim

[simplysmn]

The last hard 1 we took apart we had to heat with a torch then hit with a hard chisel finally broke loose just took some time . Keep at it .

[jethro]

a little hesitant to use torch- as that localized intense heat might tend to warp the iron...... might have to though.....
will keep trying !

T

[CumminsPower59]

Here's what I'd do. Sandwich the oil inlet and outlet sides between a large vise using some stock to hold it in place, with the turbine outlet facing down. Then just put a little heat on it where it mates to the cartridge, and give it a good rap with a heavy hammer. It'll pop right off. Your gonna have to get after it to get it off, don't be ginger with it.

[jethro]

worked on it a little more tonight. heated the exhaust side up to about 300F with heat gun. did a little air hammer action around the sides of the turbine housing-nothing obvious happening. Turned out the 3 little bolt-jacks.
They seemed to be moving a little. I alternated between them. But then I noticed that the exhaust wheel slightly dragging
against maybe the housing. Could be that it came out a little- maybe more on one side than the other- OR my little jacks put
slight bends in the underside of the center section where they were pushing. (which may make the whole thing scrap)
I stopped and submerged the whole thing down in 3 gallons of oil to soak.
I am afraid if I hit the outside of the housing too hard it could make a dent which could freeze the wheel. OR if I do knock it off with a hammer -the housing could hit the wheel and bend a vane or even the shaft. Aggravating for sure- 22 years of rust and they didn't give you any way to pull it apart.

[Tacoclaw]

Torch and a hammer, both in moderation. Penetrating oil, no moderation required.

You'll be fine torching it, just use some common sense, you're not gonna cherry one spot and leave the rest cold. I get it pretty hot when I do it, my only worry has been overheating the seals. I hold it off the ground by the compressor housing and smack downward on the turbine housing with the biggest hammer I can fit in there.

Your arm gives a nice cushion, you're not going to bend cast iron before it, so smack away. Just remember how brittle cast is, don't work the same spot repeatedly.


If you've got it moving the hard part is done, just take a hammer as described above and smack the side thats dragging. Once the wheel is spinning free just alternate sides and walk it off.

[jethro]

I will try that Taco-
It is useless to me if I cant re-clock it-----
If it gets bent during the beating (!) I have located another good used one locally for 150 $ for parts or
a "do-over".

I have seen overhauled ones for in the 350$ range- Would they simply come apart with fingers only
to re-clock since they have been cleaned and reassembled very recently ?

Tim

[jethro]

Praise God and Pass the ammunition- I finally got the darned thing apart !
I tried the tacho-Claw method-

I hung the assy from a wire from the ceiling- wired a short loop with a handle to lift by. heated around the exhaust side of the
joint with O-A torch around and around for about 6-8 minutes till the oil was steaming - (pulled out of a 5 gallon bucket of oil
and hosed down with gunk)
Lifted by home made handle (attached to core) and bumped around the edge of the exh. housing with a 5 pound engineers hammer. gradually I could see the lip rising ! kept coming and coming back wards out until it was clear and the housing fell about 2 inches onto a pile of cardboard (a soft landing spot)

I believe the little bolt-jack devices I started with WERE pushing it apart a little, though unevenly- so I hope when I was cranking those out and feeling something giving- that the giving feeling was the thing separating and NOT the core flange just bending. I am going on that assumption for now !

Going to sandblast the outside of the exh housing.
What could I soak the core in that wouldn't swell the seals ? Diesel fuel ? charcoal lighter (like diesel)
Would I be slap stupid NOT to get a seal kit and put new seals in it while it is apart ? (50-60K mile engine I was told)
Don't feel any end play- both blades look fine.
This thing has the regular hex nut on the compressor shaft- I may should have marked its clock position on the shaft-
will a different clock position on re-assembly throw the balance out for the fan-shaft-fan set ??????

Tim
( I didn't want to believe in the power of the sledge- but there are times when it is all that will work ! )

[Tacoclaw]

Glad it worked. The sledge is never the only way, but its always the easy way.


Why are you soaking the core, to clean it? I'd just stuff the holes and spray it with Gunk gel.



Holset parts are supposedly balanced separately, so taking it apart and not getting them perfect *shouldnt* hurt, but after xxx,xxx miles who knows if everything is still perfect.

It's just an H1c, any reason you're trying to go full resto on it?

[jethro]

Yes- I did get the impression that the H1C might be a simplistic dinosaur of a turbo.......
I have scrubbed and cleaned and painted the engine , put in new seals, new thermostat, new 2-nd gen fuel pump,
repaired a hole in the pan, new pan gasket, painted the whole engine back to the cummins beige and black.
The hot side housing was pretty grubby looking and I have a bead blaster........... figured I blast it on the outside and
paint with ceramic engine paint......

I think the seal kit is about 50 $ or so...... but I bet I didn't get the seals hot enough to heat damage them- but on the other hand the seals are 22 years old....... maybe (?) good time to put new ones in ? My concern is not so much with the turbo but that if it fails that those little chunks will go "down the hatch" and screw the pooch...... that would be my motivation maybe for a re-balance. I don't really know it runs fast enough for that to be an issue..... I had read that H1C's on gas engines (hot rods) run MUCH faster...... hont know if that lets me off the hook any or not- balancewise.....

Tim

[thrashingcows]

Pay the good money for the OEM Holset bearings and seals, or at least guaranteed made in the USA parts. I went with the cheaper off shore rebuild kit and I ended up wrecking my HX35. The "New" bearings int eh off shore kit had more play in them then the old worn holset bearings....so the intake and exhaust impellers were hitting their respective housings.

[jethro]

That sounds like better judgment- especially when its probably a fairly inexpensive part.....
Would OEM be from great Britton or Charleston Sc, ? I wonder ?
Tim