replaceing the power steering pump

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replaceing the power steering pump

Postby krazykarl454 » Thu May 01, 2008 6:27 pm

hey guys im in the middle of replaceing the power steerin pump on my truck, and i was wondering how u guys go about gettin the gear off the pump? special threaded puller, with a pusher bolt? i'd be greatful for any info.
thanks
86' GMC 3500 (cummins swap: hx40, POD's, I/C 5" exhaust) , custom 4-link front end, about 9-inchs of lift, dana 60 4.56s welded/ 14-bolt, 4.56s detroit. grooved 38.5 x16 TSLs, custom frt/Rr bumpers, 16.5 super sinlge welds
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Postby nooblet » Fri May 02, 2008 11:22 am

What year 6bt is this? The non-ic'd engines are different than the ic'd engines.

Chris
1990 W250 4X4 / PODs / 366 Spring / BHAF / Lockers / 35" BFG MTs / Getrag / Valair Ceramic / 3.54:1's / Phantom II Boost/Pyro / Muffler Delete

"Speak softly and carry a big stick" --T.Roosevelt
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Postby krazykarl454 » Fri May 02, 2008 12:34 pm

well ya it was originaly a non-intercooled 6bt, and it had the vaccum pump between the power steering pump n the block
86' GMC 3500 (cummins swap: hx40, POD's, I/C 5" exhaust) , custom 4-link front end, about 9-inchs of lift, dana 60 4.56s welded/ 14-bolt, 4.56s detroit. grooved 38.5 x16 TSLs, custom frt/Rr bumpers, 16.5 super sinlge welds
krazykarl454
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Postby TWorline » Fri May 02, 2008 4:26 pm

First carefuly remove the oil pressure sending unit which is directly behind the PS pump, then remove the PS lines and then remove the bolts that hold the vaccum pump to the timing cover. Gently slide the whole assembly rearward and pull it on up and out of the engine bay. There are 4 nuts that hold the PS pump on the vaccum pump and no you can not take it apart in the truck. You will have to reinstall the studs from your PS pump into the new one and make sure you get the spacers on the right studs and after you lube the new seal carefully align the PS drive with the slot in the vaccum pump. At least that is how you change one on an I/C engine! ;-)
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby krazykarl454 » Fri May 02, 2008 5:14 pm

well thanks for the detailed removeal instructions, but it was already out n on my bench, what i was tryin to get info on, was how to remove the gear? or seperate the gear from the P/S pump. I already removed both diaphram pumps so theres no presure on the cam from the lifters, and the 4 bolts holdin the P/S pump to the vac pump. now on the inside of the gear its threaded. and on the inside of the pump shaft its threaded with a smaller I.D. so from what it looks like there os a speacial puller to seperate the 2, then probly another tool usein the smaller I.D. threads to pull it back on. hope the clears it up. thanks again
86' GMC 3500 (cummins swap: hx40, POD's, I/C 5" exhaust) , custom 4-link front end, about 9-inchs of lift, dana 60 4.56s welded/ 14-bolt, 4.56s detroit. grooved 38.5 x16 TSLs, custom frt/Rr bumpers, 16.5 super sinlge welds
krazykarl454
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby TWorline » Fri May 02, 2008 7:43 pm

I wil let the Non I/C guys handle it from here as I have never even taken a look at the "older style" PS pump/vaccum pump set up. :oops:
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby boostedve » Fri May 02, 2008 8:04 pm

The drive gear is a press fit and will need to be removed by pressing it off from the shaft.
You can do this without a commercially made puller.
To do this you will need to get a threaded bolt, it needs to be a hardened (Grade-8)
And you will need to get a small stud to place behind the bolt to reach the power steering pump shaft. I bought 2 studs of different lengths, they are carburetor studs and the thread pitch is unimportant as the are only using them to push against.




So what you will do is stand the pump on end and drop the stud into the hole so it sits in the hole on the end of the pump shaft. Then thread in the Grade-8 bolt you are going to be using to push the pump gear off with.
Using an impact wrench, hold onto the gear with a GLOVED hand and carefully drive the pump gear up and off the end of the pump shaft.
As you do so the gear will raise and the entire eccentric bearing will come off with the gear.
FOR SALE 1991 dodge d350 hx40 2nd gen intercooler, few pump mods, 366 spring, no afc, timing bump,pistion lift pump, 5" down pipe, bhaf, old smokey fuel pin, boost, pyro, tach gauges 14.10 @96mph 310hp, pm for pics and info..
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Postby krazykarl454 » Sat May 03, 2008 8:01 am

now thas what im talkin about. thanks alot Boostedve for your help im goin to pop the gear off rite now. have a good one guys
86' GMC 3500 (cummins swap: hx40, POD's, I/C 5" exhaust) , custom 4-link front end, about 9-inchs of lift, dana 60 4.56s welded/ 14-bolt, 4.56s detroit. grooved 38.5 x16 TSLs, custom frt/Rr bumpers, 16.5 super sinlge welds
krazykarl454
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:46 pm
Location: north jerzy
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Postby nooblet » Sat May 03, 2008 12:15 pm

boostedve wrote:The drive gear is a press fit and will need to be removed by pressing it off from the shaft.
You can do this without a commercially made puller.
To do this you will need to get a threaded bolt, it needs to be a hardened (Grade-8)
And you will need to get a small stud to place behind the bolt to reach the power steering pump shaft. I bought 2 studs of different lengths, they are carburetor studs and the thread pitch is unimportant as the are only using them to push against.




So what you will do is stand the pump on end and drop the stud into the hole so it sits in the hole on the end of the pump shaft. Then thread in the Grade-8 bolt you are going to be using to push the pump gear off with.
Using an impact wrench, hold onto the gear with a GLOVED hand and carefully drive the pump gear up and off the end of the pump shaft.
As you do so the gear will raise and the entire eccentric bearing will come off with the gear.


This is what I did, but not with an impact wrench, and with a crappy bolt that was all bent to hell at the end of the exercise :D

To get the PS pump back on the vacuum pump you need a long bolt that will thread into the the vacuum pump and a nut that fits the bolt. Reverse order to pull the pumps together. Thats how I did it, maybe if you have a press you can press them back together??

Chris
1990 W250 4X4 / PODs / 366 Spring / BHAF / Lockers / 35" BFG MTs / Getrag / Valair Ceramic / 3.54:1's / Phantom II Boost/Pyro / Muffler Delete

"Speak softly and carry a big stick" --T.Roosevelt
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Postby boostedve » Sat May 03, 2008 8:09 pm

i had good luck with diong it this way and did it twice....
FOR SALE 1991 dodge d350 hx40 2nd gen intercooler, few pump mods, 366 spring, no afc, timing bump,pistion lift pump, 5" down pipe, bhaf, old smokey fuel pin, boost, pyro, tach gauges 14.10 @96mph 310hp, pm for pics and info..
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Postby krazykarl454 » Wed May 07, 2008 8:57 pm

dude it worked like a champ, definetly the way to do it, i took a bunch of pics so maybe i'll put a sticky together. thanks again man
86' GMC 3500 (cummins swap: hx40, POD's, I/C 5" exhaust) , custom 4-link front end, about 9-inchs of lift, dana 60 4.56s welded/ 14-bolt, 4.56s detroit. grooved 38.5 x16 TSLs, custom frt/Rr bumpers, 16.5 super sinlge welds
krazykarl454
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:46 pm
Location: north jerzy
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