Bleeder broke on my abs pump...

[Diesel]

The bleeder on the abs pump is snapped off but I didn't do it. I don't want to eliminate the pump but I do want to bleed it now that I have new wheel cylinders on the rear. Does anyone know what size thread it is? Same as wheel cylinders?

[skilletky]

Dont know the thread size, but youll be happier bypassing the abs valve

[Diesel]

It would probably be cheaper to bypass...

[diesel freak01]

I also agree bypass is the only way to go. My rear brakes never worked until i bypassed the ABS and then the truck would actually stop like it should. I even have the bypass fittings at the house because when i went to bypass i ended up having to replace all of my rear brake lines.

[Diesel]

So the broken bleeder must be allowing air into my brakes incredibly slowly. I put new rear cylinders on and bled it out a couple weeks ago. My pedal no longer would hang up. Now its back to hanging up unless I pull it up. Pretty sure if I bleed it the pedal will be fine. The ABS pump isn't leaking but the bleeder is broken in it. Any tips? Could the pump be the cause of my hanging pedal? Thing is when I bleed it the problem is gone I think...but the pump also isn't leaking so how could it be letting air in?

Can anyone link to the parts list to bypass the valve?

[Diesel]

This is what I found to bypass WEA 7917 & WEA 7828

Just those two from NAPA and the rest is bolt together?

[diesel freak01]

Yes, you disconnect the rubber line from the ABS and these two fittings connect the rubber hose to the brake line direct. I suggest a couple days of some PB blaster before you plan to do it as mine broke and I ended up replacing all the brake lines. Bad day.

[Diesel]

I am hesitant to replace the unit with another one. For $100 I can get a Raybestos remanufactured unit but I am worried that I will spend $100 on the unit and just have it cause my rear brakes to stick again on unless i pull up on the pedal. Any success stories on the remanufactured parts?

[dazedandconfused]

Just eliminate it and be done with it.

[Diesel]

I hate that I am removing the ABS pump but I guess anything is better than having a pedal I have to manually pull back. I'll probably try and run a flare on the rear line and bend a hardline to the rear rubber line. Could anyone tell me the size of the stock metal line so I can go buy a section of it? Thanks.

[ellis93]

Should be 3/16ths

[Diesel]

Appreciate it. So hopefully I can flair a section of stock line and use a 3/16" line to mate to the rubber hose at the axle. So do these dodges use bubble flairs?

[ellis93]

Nope, regular old flare or double flare

[PToombs]

Just use the adapters listed a few posts back and the 2 sections of steel line will bolt together. Or, if you are replacing the line from the front, just go direct to the hose, that's a regular end the brake line nut will screw into.
The ABS valve just has different fittings in it, that's why some guys use the adapters.

[Diesel]

Confused: so I bought those two fittings which each have a male and female side. There are two lines going into the abs pump. Do I take the lines out, bend them a little so they bolt together? What coupler do I use?