bad brakes

[scottdevall@yahoo.com]

so i have to say i have the worst brakes of all times on my dodge. and i was talking a guy that also has a first gen and he also had terrible brakes like i did. so is it just our truck or is it just a first gen dodge issue. and if anybody has a way of fixing the issue please let me now

[Mark Nixon]

The dump valve for the ABS is probably the biggest troublemaker on these trucks.
If you're troubleshooting brakes, start with that, then the master cylinder.

Above all, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly and that the adjuster cables and other hardware are in place and correctly functioning.

Mark.

[scottdevall@yahoo.com]

well i replaced the master cylinder both rear wheel cylinder and i put ebc brakes on the front and the rears have bendix new shoes. and the wheel cylinders and master cylinders are bendix
yet the brakes are still sponge so, and what is the signs that the abs are bad

[Mark Nixon]

You're seeing the biggest sign right now.
Are your ABS and brake light in the Message Center on?

Also, when you adjust the brakes, make sure the E-brake is totally slack, disconnect it or adjust it slack, THEN adjust the rear brakes.

Mark.

[Tacoclaw]

Honestly, I'd just assume that the ABS valve is bad on them all. Unless you feel that the braking technology of the 1990s is capable of stopping your truck any better than you, I'd just go ahead and ditch it whether you think it's the problem or not. (if it's still there, it probably is.)

I'm actually in the same boat as you, Scott. I did the 1-ton shoe conversion, new calipers and pads on the front, 2nd new master, (just assumed the master had to be bad, since nothing else showed itself after a few nights of bleeding.) ABS valve is already deleted on my truck, and it still has a random spongy pedal. I had a nice pants-filling moment when I decided that yellow light wasn't going to last quite long enough, and ended up dragging 1 back tire through the red light.

My vacuum leaves something to be desired, as it seems to randomly work, and I can hear it leaking out the booster so that's kind of my fault, but I still get the mile-long pedal drop at times. My MCs also seem to leak out of the lid. The stock on did, and so has every one I've gotten so far. I just space the gasket out from the lid with some thin rubber.

So, delete the ABS, (it'll be a little in-line sensor on the drivers side above the rear axle) ensure you've bled everything, make sure your vacuum pump is functional, and that your booster is working as well, and make sure your master isn't leaking out it's fluid through the lid.

EDIT: And tighten up those shoes, as suggested by Mr. Nixon ^^

[Mark Nixon]

Tacoclaw,
Did you by any chance try changing the port valve in the frame rail?
Sometimes that little valve (proportioning, it's called) sticks and makes the pedal do similar to what you described.

Mark.

[Tacoclaw]

Actually, I read somewhere that there's a little pin that's supposed to stick out when the pedal is pressed. Mine does that, so I haven't really looked into it much further. I did get fed up and hang my vice-grips on it the last time I bled it, forcing it to stay out the whole time, dunno if it helped, but I do seem to actually have a *little* front braking now.

Honestly though, it's getting to the point where I'm gonna have to replace that damn thing too. That's alright though, I really haven't done enough brake bleeding over the past year.

[Mark Nixon]

Guys, even the silliest little things can screw with the brakes.
I've had perfectly good LOOKING rubber flex lines that were collapsed and rotted inside that caused hair pulling incidents.
The rear flex line from the frame rail to the axle is probably THE LEAST REPLACED PART in a brake system, as it's never exposed to direct sunlight, it's far away from direct heat from fluid and it generally isn't cracked or worn looking.
It does a lot of moving with the axle, though.

I've replaced 5 this last year in random vehicles (one was my carhauler), 2 of which fixed a rear pressure problem.

Mark.

[Tacoclaw]

Well, looking at Rockauto (my go-to place to get a picture of something), they don't even mention a proportioning valve for my truck. Doesn't bode well for finding it anywhere else.

I may just start small and do the rubber lines like you suggested. The old K.I.S.S. principal.

[scottdevall@yahoo.com]

well i ajusted the brakes when i changed the pads and shoes. and like after a few day the brakes where sponge so i dont think the brake became unajusted. and i had to replace the rear left e brake so thats new,
so now if i remove the abs system would it possible fix the problem
and i bought a 3 inch deaver lift kit for it and i have new bilstien shocks all around for it, and i bought the extensions lines for the axles for it the skyjackers. so now for another question do they have the stainless steel brake lines for both the front calipers

[scottdevall@yahoo.com]

Well, looking at Rockauto (my go-to place to get a picture of something), they don't even mention a proportioning valve for my truck. Doesn't bode well for finding it anywhere else.

I may just start small and do the rubber lines like you suggested. The old K.I.S.S. principal.

what does k.i.s.s. stand for

[Mark Nixon]

Keep It Simple, Stupid.
K.I.S.S.

Mark.

[scottdevall@yahoo.com]

oh that awsome.
so has anybody ever changed all the rubber lines with stainless steel hoses (the brake lines of coarse)

[Diesel]

Did you bleed the rear abs valve? Mine were spongy until I cracked the bleeder on the rear valve after having bled the rear cylinders. The rear valve must be bled independently just like its a wheel cylinder.

[scottdevall@yahoo.com]

so nodody has installed all the stainless steel lines for the rubbers