Any writeup's on front rotor replacement on 2wd D250 trucks?

[Diesel]

My front rotors are warped from when the calipers locked up - any writeup's on how to replace them and what else to replace when in there? I would guess just get the rotors and new bearings? I've never replaced 2wd front rotors so a more detailed explanation would be really nice

[ellis93]

I assume that you know about the bearings so I'll skip that, to take the rotors off the hub you knock out the studs then the assembly will split apart. To knock out the studs I usually screw a lug nut down on the stud to keep from damaging the threads.
To reassemble you drive the studs back in with a drift pin and a hammer. Its a fairly simple job

[Diesel]

Ellis - sorry I don't know anything about the bearings. What do I do with them? I am guessing I have to replace them with some new timkens. What torque to put on the hub nut? Any other key torque values? I am trying to knock this out on Monday.

[Diesel]

Also - if the vehicle has good alignment and doesn't have any wheel bearing issues then I can just buy the rotor without the hub right?

[ellis93]

I don't have any torque specs per say but there will be two bearings in there along with two races inside the hub. They and the hub/rotor assembly are held together by a castle nut and cotter pin.
To remove: extract cotter pin and unscrew castle nut. Next there should be a washer and the outer bearing, pull them out and re install the castle nut, after nut is back on grab the rotor at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, allow the rotor to rest on the spindle, now pull the rotor toward you forcefully. This will allow the nut to catch the inner bearing and seal and remove them.
As far as reassembly, pay attention to that castle nut. You don't want to tighten it up hard, you'll burn up your bearings. to get it right I spin the rotor while I tighten the nut, just as soon as I feel spinning resistance I stop and back off about a 1/16 of a turn or till I can install a cotter pin back in. One other thing buy new cotter pins.
If the bearings aren't burnt or pitted you don't have to buy more.

[Diesel]

Ok thanks! So I will just get rotors and reuse my hubs. Should I be replacing that seal or is that replaceable.

[ellis93]

I typically reuse them unless they are torn or the rubber is really hard

[Tacoclaw]

Writeup on replacing/servicing your D250 brakes


The rest of the DTR "Sticky"

1stgen.org's very own Sticky

If it involves basic maintenence, the Sticky there or here should be your first destination. If it's not in there, then it probably needs it's own specific thread.

[Diesel]

Thanks guys. Any idea what the hub nut size is?

[ellis93]

Channel lock pliers Its not tight

[Diesel]

Channel lock pliers Its not tight

Thats my favorite size

I got the rotors with hubs cheaper than just rotors but now I am just hoping its the right part. The new hubs have races but not the bearing...can I install old bearings with new races or should I just tap in the old races with the old bearings?

[ellis93]

I've never bought a two piece assembly already put together. Its always just the rotor. There's two different axles for these trucks. Ones 4000# diesel and one for gas 3600#, not sure about the gas poundage. The gas rotors are one piece.
You can use the new races with the old bearings, as long as the bearings are in good shape.