by Mark Nixon » Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:51 am
I think you have the tooth directionality confused.
The teeth are angled so as to NOT allow the star wheel to back off, so that it's easier to TIGHTEN the brakes.
This is how the adjuster finger locks the star wheel, it drives INTO the ramp, not away from it, thus maintaining the adjustment.
For REMOVAL, all there is to use is the 2 screwdriver method, one to release the pawl, the other to back the star wheel off.
With there being no real way to gain a satisfactory grip (besides more force) on the star wheel to loosen it, if the star wheel is seized, you are pretty much SOL and have to force things apart.
In MOST cases, if you can't adjust the brakes, it's likely they'll come apart fairly easily, anyway.
Let's face it, most of us only look at the rear brakes because they have made themselves known to be a problem.
Usually by then they need much attention.
On adjusting them, the clue as to whether you're going the right way is if the tool (Brake spoon or screwdriver) slips easily, you're trying to LOOSEN it, if it "bites", with no slippage, plus you can hear the finger "click", you're tightening it.
This assumes that the brake hardware is still in good condition and that everything is installed and working properly.
I put up a posting recently with a fairly detailed description of the self-adjuster theory, which may or may not be comprehensible without actually having a brake assembly to look at.
Admittedly, I probably should do a write up with pics, to clarify things a bit more.
Mark.