Twin Fuel Tanks

[jensenkennels]

Here's the project -
1979 Dodge W200 4 door repowered with a '93 CTD.
To carry fuel out of harms way, I have fabbed in two Ramcharger gas tanks between the frame rails, over the rear axle. Trust me, what I'm building they have to go there.
I'm seeking advise on -
1 - what is needed and how to convert the Ramcharger gas tanks (pickups,vents,sending units) to fuel tanks for the diesel.
2 - what is needed and how to set the tanks up as a twin tank configuration. Meaning, I want to be able to change tanks in the cab with a switch.

Thanks in advance,
MADDOG

[PToombs]

I just put it in! I run the in-tank pump and transfer from the 'charger tank to the main. I don't know how much pressure it puts out or how it will hold up to the diesel though. If the pump quits, I'll transfer the line from the "supply" port to the "drain" port. Drain is a direct line from the bottom of the module. In your case, maybe hook to each "drain" port, then to a switcher valve, then to a fuel pump. Remember, not more than 15-16 psi to the VE.
Fords and chevys with duel tanks had a switchover valve. Has suction and return ports for both tanks.

[jensenkennels]

then to a switcher valve,

They say "Brilliant minds think alike". And as soon as I meet a couple, I'll ask them

You mean something like this, Pete?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLLAK-6 ... dZViewItem

MADDOG

[PToombs]

Yup, exactly! I was thinking one out of a junkyard, but I'm cheap! Almost as cheap as Bill!
That should work good, I see it comes with the plug and wires too. What I don't see is what size the ports are. Suction should be 3/8 and return 5/16. I don't think I would go smaller than that. I can't remember what stock is on the diesel trucks. 5/16 and 1/4?
Bigger lets you plan for an upgrade. I know, none of us plan on upgrading!

[jensenkennels]

From the Pollak website -
Incorporates six ports including returns, draws .5 amps max. at 12 Volts, fits 3/8" I.D. hose for fuel supply and 5/16" hose for return lines. Mounting holes:2 5/16" threaded nuts on 1 3/16"centers.valves remains in actuated position after power is disconnected. For new installations 42-203 connector and 34-592 toggle switch required. Installations sheet included. Motorized Fuel Tank Selector Valves (Diesel or Gas) These valves are designed for use in applications which involve in-tank fuel pumps, not exceeding the rated pres sure of the valve. Motorized valves are driven into position by an electric motor and are stable in either position. They only draw power for a fraction of a second during transfer. A switch in the valve shuts off the motor when the valve reaches the selected position. Note: Another switch within the valve provides automatic fuel gauge readout for selected tank.

Will this work for my application?


MADDOG

[jensenkennels]

May have answered my own question.

Post #8 - http://www.1stgen.org/viewtopic.php?t=4 ... +fuel+tank

That's on a '90.

MADDOG

[PToombs]

Yeah, that'll do it. It's interesting that the valve switches the guage over too. I would have used a double pole switch to run both valve and guage.
Now you just have to find a pump that will pull the fuel. Holleys suck, meaning they won't draw fuel, they push better. You could upgrade to the piston pump on the engine, I bet that will have enough to get the fuel up there. A good stock pump might do it for the front tank fer sure. The rear might be too far away.

[jensenkennels]

So I "think" I've gotten the original two questions answered.
1 - what is needed and how to convert the Ramcharger gas tanks (pickups,vents,sending units) to fuel tanks for the diesel.
I'm going to use the tanks as they are. No modification needed.
2 - what is needed and how to set the tanks up as a twin tank configuration. Meaning, I want to be able to change tanks in the cab with a switch.
The Pollak 6 port valve. One is on the way.


So naturally when i find the solution to a problem, at least another problem comes up!
Fuel pressure from the rear an/or both tank(s) to the lift pump.

The piston pump. Will it work? And, what are my options in piston pump?
I understand that the piston pump will move more fuel. I'll run 3/8" I.D. hose for fuel supply and 5/16" hose for return lines per the Pollak valve, and what is on the tanks.

MADDOG

[PToombs]

P-pump is the inline injection pump. Do you mean the piston pump? If the piston pump, there are 2 options, low flow, has 15 psi, Hi flow has 40 ? I think. I have the low flow on mine, holds 15-16 most of the time, unless I'm on it hard, then it drops to 10. You don't want more than that at the VE, or you can blow out the front seal, and fill the base with fuel. I would say put in a fuel pressure guage, at least temporarily, to see what you have, then go from there.

On the fuel level guage, the sender in the RC tanks may read different than the stock one. The one I have when full to the brim, reads right on the "F", not over, when it was empty, just installed, it read right on the "E", not below. The regular one will read just over F and under E.
Hook up the wires with them out, and manually run them from full to empty and see where they read, that's what I did.

[jensenkennels]

Sorry Pete, fixed it. Damn decaf!
As far as putting in a fuel pressure gauge and seeing what I have now, that is a no go. This is a frame off build. At this time there is no wiring , interior, nothing inside the cab. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448507 Be careful Pete, if your the sensitive type, conversation can get alittle "spicy" on that website.
All the gauges will be aftermarket. So, I'll figure out what the tank level sending units send for ohms and order accordingly.
MADDOG

[PToombs]

Maddog, I got up to page 5, and bookmarked it for later. That's cool! Now I see where you're going, there and back!
Spicy doesn't bother me, I give as good as that! On the guages, that's a good idea, no problems on the senders that way.
I think the lower pressure lift pump will do it for you, you're not going all out performance. I think the part #'s are on here someplace, or I can look at my receipt. Usually about $200 for pump, line, spacer, and gaskets.

Oh, you could run it, it's got a VE! All you need is 1 12v wire to to the IP.

Decafe?

[jensenkennels]

Pete, if you or someone else can get me the part #'s I'd appreciate it.
Thanks for all the help.
MADDOG

[Philip]

pump 3936320

spacer 3914284

gaskets 2ea. 3931348

fuel line 3914753

seals 2ea 3918191

[PToombs]

Thanks Philip, saves me from pawing thru my file!

Maddog, if you are closer to a Case/IH dealer, change the first "3" to a "J". They can get you the parts. Might be cheaper, might not.

[jensenkennels]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the #'s. Off to buy a pump.
MADDOG