So, I can't drive my truck for another 2 weeks due to my broken leg concluding the major healing process so I decided it would be a good time to tear into it. The stock H1C produces 24 psi of boost but has some lag and I need to get rid of the lag with my stick shift so figured I might as well put on the FREE turbo. Turbo has 60,000 miles and was on a mid 90s ram.
Plan is;
1. Take manifold and turbo off as a unit,
2. sandblast manifold and exhaust housing,
3. gasket-match the ports,
4 rust treat manifold and ex housing,
5. coat with cast manifold gray,
6. Tap the turbo compressor for a boost elbow
7. set up the exhaust brake
8. mount using new exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets and adapt the aftermarket filter for a 4" inlet 45 degree bend steel tube.
Current set up:
The HX35
The locked-up WH1C that's donating the w/g 12cm2 exhaust housing.
I will post pictures of my home-brew exhaust brake. It is a 1/4" steel plate with 3" standoff and a butterfly valve. It is controlled by an electric actuator that will have a momentary toggle switch on the shifter!
New outlet was made from 3" schedule 80 pipe tig welded to a piece of 1/4" plate (first time ever tig welding)
Sandblasted exhaust housing:
Butterfly made out of 1/8" steel and 5/16 SS bolt that I put into the mill and milled it to half the diameter for a flat spot to weld the plate onto:
Waste gate welded shut:
Then treated with muratic acid and washed, then brushed on some POR 20 heat resistant paint to 2000 degrees
The way it works is the spring returns the butterfly to the open position and then I plan on buying a continuous duty actuator from mcmaster carr and that will close it and I will have to make an adjustable stop so I don't make too much back pressure and blow stuff up :S:
NEW VS OLD!
Manifold was sandblasted, rust treated, casting deburred, egt drilled and ported:
Exhaust:
Turbo on:
I am very impressed with the quick spool up but this turbo is actually making LESS boost than stock!!!:confused013: I had a great bit of trouble getting the compressor housing on (Has the snap ring) and the snap ring would not seat completely. I had it apart for a few months and I'm thinking the O ring might have swelled enough to increase the clearance between the compressor and compressor wheel. We are talking .020". Would that affect my boost much?
Also, the exhaust brake works great manually. I need to mount the actuator for it later this week......
As a result of the new turbo with the homemade exhaust brake, the downpipe was moved back 2.5" and had some clearance issues with the heater. I had to shorten the downpipe on the turbo side. Have the full exhaust on now with a muffler (4") and love it. Nice deep tone but quiet inside.
If you hook a manual pull cable to the exhaust brake you can pull it on and if someone is riding your ass down the road just hammer the accelerator and black out the whole road.
Charlie