transfercase question???

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transfercase question???

Postby mcarmaniac » Wed Dec 24, 2008 4:54 pm

My truck won't stay in 2 Hi it keeps jumping out of it. But it will stay in 4 Hi?? Does anybody know what might be wrong with it or how to fix it? Is there a linkage that might be out of adjuctment? How can see how the linkage would be adjustible tho? Any help would be great.
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Postby PToombs » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:52 pm

Might be the linkage. Look underneath and see if there is a bad bushing on the rod someplace.
IIRC, to adjust it, there is a bolt that goes into a U shaped band, this slides on the rod. Just loosen the bolt, and tap the band and it should slide on the rod.
Since it's a NY truck, you may need a blue wrench to get it loose. ;)
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Postby mcarmaniac » Wed Dec 24, 2008 9:10 pm

Do you meen because of the rust?
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Postby mcarmaniac » Thu Dec 25, 2008 10:43 am

I can't find any place to adjust it?
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Postby Richie O » Thu Dec 25, 2008 12:12 pm

I would start by oiling everything up. The shift rods where they enter the case should be emery clothed and oiled up. They look pretty rusty. Maybe the rods are not going in or out enough to engage it all the way. If you have to, put it in 4 wheel drive and unlock 1 front hub to drive the thing home. Just make sure to jack the wheel off the ground to double check that the hub unlocked. Sometimes they hang engaged.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby mcarmaniac » Thu Dec 25, 2008 1:47 pm

Richie O wrote:I would start by oiling everything up. The shift rods where they enter the case should be emery clothed and oiled up. They look pretty rusty. Maybe the rods are not going in or out enough to engage it all the way. If you have to, put it in 4 wheel drive and unlock 1 front hub to drive the thing home. Just make sure to jack the wheel off the ground to double check that the hub unlocked. Sometimes they hang engaged.

right now its in 4 wheel drive with the driveshaft out. And I have a 1600 mile drive home
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Re: transfercase question???

Postby burnt_servo » Thu Dec 25, 2008 2:55 pm

mcarmaniac wrote:My truck won't stay in 2 Hi it keeps jumping out of it. But it will stay in 4 Hi?? Does anybody know what might be wrong with it or how to fix it? Is there a linkage that might be out of adjuctment? How can see how the linkage would be adjustible tho? Any help would be great.


you mean it jumps to neutral from 2 hi ?

what kind of truck are you working on , year and transfercase type ( if known ) .

i was under the asumption that the default with everything but a np203 transfercase was 2 hi .
'93 w250 .... stock ...
curently removing the dead moose parts ....
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Postby mcarmaniac » Thu Dec 25, 2008 3:53 pm

Im not exactly sure its a 1993 w250 dodge cummins 4x4. I guess it would be neutral I don't know my uncle just said that it slips out of 2 wheel drive so he put it in 4 wheel drive and took the front drive shaft out and has been running it like that for the last 3 years now that its my truck Im trying to fix it.
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Postby PToombs » Thu Dec 25, 2008 6:17 pm

I meant because of the rust, but there's no adjuster on that one.
Never run with 1 hub in or out. Always have both in or out, except for emergencys. With only 1 engaged, the spider gears spin on the pin, wearing the pin and spiders out.
I'd move the lever to get the sliders to come out, then emery them and grease them like richie said. You may need a bar to pry them out, from the looks of the shafts.
The way the weather has been, you're better off to get it to work, in case you need it on the way home. Unless you want to put 4-500 lbs in the back for traction, or put the shaft in if it gets crappy out. :?
pete

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Postby mcarmaniac » Thu Dec 25, 2008 7:20 pm

PToombs wrote:I meant because of the rust, but there's no adjuster on that one.
Never run with 1 hub in or out. Always have both in or out, except for emergencys. With only 1 engaged, the spider gears spin on the pin, wearing the pin and spiders out.
I'd move the lever to get the sliders to come out, then emery them and grease them like richie said. You may need a bar to pry them out, from the looks of the shafts.
The way the weather has been, you're better off to get it to work, in case you need it on the way home. Unless you want to put 4-500 lbs in the back for traction, or put the shaft in if it gets crappy out. :?

Ya its been bad Im going to try and get it fixed before I leave.
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Postby mcarmaniac » Thu Dec 25, 2008 7:26 pm

I'll clean them up in the morning. How will I know if it is locked in or not? If I drive it and it pops out will it tear something up?
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Postby Richie O » Thu Dec 25, 2008 8:02 pm

Pete, If it is in 4 wheel drive and you unlock one hub it will act as that wheel is on ice. When its in lock, the drive shaft ( if it was in ) would turn, the wheel that is in lock position will turn the axle shaft and the one that is unlocked has to turn in the same direction. The only way the spiders would move is if the transfer case is in 2 wheel. The spiders will see no action. I drove a np 203 full time case this way. I just put it in 4 lock and let one hub free. I hated the feedback in the steering wheel that the full time case had. The truck already had locking hubs. I also wanted to be able to fry some rubber.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PToombs » Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:59 am

I don't think it will hurt any thing. Just drive it easy at 1st and see how it goes.
Rich, I had to think about that for a minute, you're right. If the driveshaft is turning, it keeps everything turning. I was thinking no shaft, and 1 hub locked. :oops:
pete

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Postby Richie O » Fri Dec 26, 2008 9:42 am

I will forgive you Pete. You must have had lots of gas. Did mumma give you some Black Lable or better yet Golden Anniversary swill for xmas. If your worried about needing 4 wheel drive to get home then you could put the driveshaft back in and run it the way I told you. I always unlocked the drivers side so if I need 4 wheel drive I just had to get out and turn that hub and not walk all the way around to the other side. Just make sure you clean those shifting rods before you start moving them in and out. I would assume there is a seal in there and you will tare it.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby mcarmaniac » Fri Dec 26, 2008 9:03 pm

well their clean now we started it up and went to drive it and found we had another rusted brake line, so we will fix that tomorrow.
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