518

How they work, how they don't work, and how to fix them

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518

Postby 92d250 » Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:17 pm

Will a hughs or tci converter hold up to 350hp? I was thinking goerends but i think its gonna be a little more money.
1992 D250 370,000 and counting on the cummins, auto, pump turned up, 6x16, 3200 spring, afc lever mia, boost and pyro guage, single stack, 5 inch lift, shifter with od button on it, potentiomitor..... Next hx40, 285's...
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Postby Mad Max » Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:17 am

A TCI or Hughes will be better than stock by quite a bit, but 350 hp means 700+ torque, and that will likely fully tax those converters. 350 is a lot, and I'd recommend one of the better versions (DTT, Goerends, or Suncoast). Yeah it's more money, but when it comes to a 1st gen converter...you get what you pay for. If you're gonna spend $430, a couple more $ will get you the best. DTT was having a sale but I think that ended 1 Jan.
- M2
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Postby peobryant » Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:45 pm

I agree, if you're going to spend money to make power, you have to spend it to get it to the ground. I vote Goerend all the way, even if it is a little more expensive.
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Postby burnt_servo » Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:28 pm

how many times would you like to pull the tranny off of the engine ?

sometimes it pays to put out a bit more money for a more reliable part that is pain in the arse to change .
Last edited by burnt_servo on Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:13 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Mad Max » Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:05 am

I'll second that. I'd say the TCI or Hughes is pretty good up to 300 hp, but over that you'll need the 'good stuff'.

- M2
"...there's always a way".

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'85 W350 Crew "Big Mack"
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Postby peobryant » Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:24 pm

burnt_servo wrote:how many times would you like to pull the tranny off of the engine ?

sometimes it pays to put out a bit more money for a more reliable part that is pain in the arse to change .


Exactly, you can buy the cheaper one now and save a little money right now. Down the road, when the cheaper one fails, you will more than likely spend the money on the more expensive part, plus the cost of installation, or your time.

I think it's better in the long run, to go with the better part, even if you have to give up some more money. It's worth it.
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:16 pm

" I would gladly pay you tommorow for a cheese burger today " . If you don't have it you don't have it. :cry: :cry:
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby RumbleFish » Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:30 pm

i could go for a cheeseburger about now...
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:21 pm

RumbleFish wrote:i could go for a cheeseburger about now...



Me too, but I just dragged my ass across the scales and did not like what they said. I had forgotten where I heard the cheeseburger thing and was watchin popeye with the kids the other day and the old guy was on saying that. :D
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:25 pm

O ,,, by the way keep us posted on your choice. It sounds like the goerends is the best choice but it is a lot of money. I think I will just keep my stocker for now. I am at 300 hp and it is pretty fun there. I would really like his ultra slow stall one but its another 300 above the regular one.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Mad Max » Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:42 pm

in my opinion...THIS...is the best upgrade for a 1st gen (with an auto) - period.

Image

DTT 1st gen converter - it's their '89%' gig, and it is 100% pure bad ass. I just finished the swap. To say it's 'better'...doesn't do it - it feels like a whole different tranny. It loads the engine nice and hard now and the turbo finally has some productive work to do. It feels almost like a lock-up. It is especially better above 50 mph - it stalls out nice and low - probably right around 1200 rpm - holds the torque tight, and above 50 mph it's all motor now. DTT makes the good stuff y'all - absolutely fantastic. There are other mfg's for converters, but this is my second DTT unit - one for both of my 1st gens - and both trucks feel totally better compared to the converters in there before. At 75 mph the truck is just cruising along - cruising...not straining to get there or maintain speed...cruisin' man, and I love it - it's exactly what I wanted. So, the question if 36" tires are too much for a truck with 3.55's??? Nope - it'll be happy aAll day long. Just takes the right parts in the right places...and a lot of torque ;).

If you own a 1st gen Dodge Cummins rig with an auto...the converter should be the first upgrade you do. Not gauges, not turbo, not injectors...do the converter. Without it...all the power upgrades won't be realized and the tranny will cook itself. Do the converter. I'm not saying the other big dawg converters aren't any good - just that these DTT clams are absolutely awesome. Yeah they're expensive - they're all expensive - so is a turbo, injectors...yadda yadda - do the converter - it'll be the best money you ever spend on your rig.

- Sam
"...there's always a way".

'78 W950 Power Wagon "Bud"
'85 W350 Crew "Big Mack"
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Postby PToombs » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:13 pm

Ooooh! It's such a pretty blue! :flower:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby GO OVRIT » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:28 pm

I have nothing but good things to say about my Suncoast. I talked to Dave Goerend too. Both seemed very knowledgable and great to deal with. At the time I needed it Dave didn't have any cores, and Suncoast could have it at my door in 3 days, so.... The Suncoast also has a Billet front cover which I like for peace of mind, but really isn't necesary in a 518/727.
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby 92d250 » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:34 pm

Thank all of you for your opinions
1992 D250 370,000 and counting on the cummins, auto, pump turned up, 6x16, 3200 spring, afc lever mia, boost and pyro guage, single stack, 5 inch lift, shifter with od button on it, potentiomitor..... Next hx40, 285's...
92d250
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Postby Mad Max » Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:25 am

yeah the DTT is also a billet cover - probably the top 3 are verrrry similar. I'm simply stating that I'm really satisfied with the DTT unit, but like is said in here the Suncoast and Goerends are the good stuff too 8) .

Two days ago my RC was hard pressed to do 75 - engine revving its heart out...truck trying to catch up...but now...it just cruises along. It's pretty sweet.

- M2
"...there's always a way".

'78 W950 Power Wagon "Bud"
'85 W350 Crew "Big Mack"
Mad Max
fuel screw!!!!
 
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