Which Southbend Clutch?

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Which Southbend Clutch?

Postby cedardiesel » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:43 pm

Which clutch do I need to get i got a friend that can sell me a a complete kit for 800.00 that is the FE clutch that is fully feramic or do I need to get a OFE which is part feramic and organic. Also the clutches 89-02 are the same right cause that of which some of the distributors seem to confuse me also what size is the input shaft? Sorry for the long winded post any advice is apprieciated thanks
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
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Postby PToombs » Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:04 pm

I can tell you that the clutchs are different because of the trans. Best bet is to call Pete and ask him what he recommends. HP is a big factor here too. I'm close to 400 hp, and I have to upgrade my flywheel to something newer, because the stock style pressure plates won't hold much over 400 hp.
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Postby cedardiesel » Sun Jan 11, 2009 7:20 pm

Thank you Pete does anybody have any other suggestions on which clutch to get and also do yall recommend that I upgrade the hydraulic assymbly also while Im at it
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby nooblet » Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:32 pm

I went with a pressure plate that pushes a lot harder on the clutch and i left my stock hydraulics, and its fine. I don't have a South Bend though, so i'm not sure if they are different some how, but i doubt it.

You won't find anything bad being said about South Bend except for they're very expensive. I bought a Valair personally and I like it. Its a little rougher than my friends South Bend of the same HP rating. His South Bend is as smooth as stock, where mine is a little jumpy, but he paid almost twice as much for his. I personally don't mind the rough ride, but some people probably do.

The Getrag's and NV4500's have the same size input shaft, but there are some small differences from what i understand. Most clutch companies make their clutches, pressure plates, flywheels, etc... able to work in either. But like PT said, call South Bend and ask them before you order one.

Hope that helps.

Chris
1990 W250 4X4 / PODs / 366 Spring / BHAF / Lockers / 35" BFG MTs / Getrag / Valair Ceramic / 3.54:1's / Phantom II Boost/Pyro / Muffler Delete

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Postby cedardiesel » Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:06 pm

alright thanks but since my truck has close to 350k miles on it we figured that it would be good replace hydraulics so do you know of where to get a good hydraulic set up thanks
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby MMiller » Sun Jan 25, 2009 5:56 pm

SBC can set you up with everything, hydraulics too. There is other clutch manufacturer's and you can choose what you want to spend. Most will try and sell you a 12.25" clutch, as that's what came in 2nd gens. The first gens come with a 13" clutch. Diesel mechanincs that worked on first gens when they were new reported no clutch problems, until the 2nd gens came out. The stock Sach's is a good clutch as long as you don't try and slip it, AKA trying to pull 3rd gear hooked to a sled. If you are happy with a little grabby clutch, and aren't planning on truck pulling, get another Sach's and replace it in another 350,000 miles.

I myself put in a SBC Con O. It is as light as the stock clutch, no shudder, gerk, or anything, even backing up heavy trailers. It will hold anything I will do, and I won't hook to anymore sleds with this truck. The SBC comes with a new flywheel to, throwout bearing, pilot bearing that is sealed and everything else. Peter will not lead you astray if you are honest with him on the use of your truck.

I don't want to replace mine in a long time, I haul heavy trailers, and fell my money was well spent.

Michael
1993 W250, 3.55, NV5600 , Con O, bosch 185's, 4" exhaust, Super 40, pump tweaks, ground pin, Smokehouse air intake, Hamilton Cam,
1985 D350, Crew Cab, 92 cummins and a 518. 47rh to be built and installed along with 3.55 LS Dana 80
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Postby randyswelding » Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:48 am

i got a sbc con ofe rated at 450hp and love that thing.my truck hits scales around 12k and when i pull trailers i get to 23k(the truckers look at me and ask whats done to the rear suspention with the trailer cause it still has a rake gota love custom springs)and i got no problems with mine backin up or any thing
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:19 pm

I went with a valair organic feramic 13", and I replaced the flywheel as well. It's a good clutch but like has been said before, it's not quite as smooth as stock. It holds everything I can dish out without issue. The guys at valair are also good at helping you figure out which clutch you need. Happy shopping.
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Postby cedardiesel » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:35 pm

alright Thanks guys but MMiller did you replace hydraulics or stay with stock? And how stiff is shifting? Cause on dads 04 3500 we put a OFE in his and made shifting pretty stiff even after break in either way its a great clutch I'm still sold on them just undecided which clutch cause I can get a street puller dual disk for almost same price as a FE single disk either route I go I'm going to replace hydraulics cause of age and milage.
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Lebanon
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Postby MMiller » Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:40 pm

I'm still running the original master cylinder, and the slave cylinder is OEM that I replaced at 45,000 miles(210,000 miles ago). I did have to put a longer rod in the slave cylinder to make sure the clutch disengaged. It shifts slick. On your other truck you should make sure the throwout bearing/fork is traveling far enough for it to fully disengage the clutch. SBC wanted me to put on new hydraulics, as I did have trouble getting the clutch to disengage. I think with the wear on the clutch link under the dash, I did not have quite enough travel on the throwout bearing to disengage the clutch. I pulled the rod off the end of the slave cylinder and made a longer one. Problem solved. Just make sure the clutch pedal will hit the floor before it maxes out the travel of the throwout bearing. When it was not right, I could feel the clutch pedal solidly stop before hitting the floor.

Michael
1993 W250, 3.55, NV5600 , Con O, bosch 185's, 4" exhaust, Super 40, pump tweaks, ground pin, Smokehouse air intake, Hamilton Cam,
1985 D350, Crew Cab, 92 cummins and a 518. 47rh to be built and installed along with 3.55 LS Dana 80
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Postby cedardiesel » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:47 am

Alright Thanks that was what I wanted to know.
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Lebanon
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