what broke part 2

How they work, how they don't work, and how to fix them

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what broke part 2

Postby skilletky » Mon Jan 19, 2009 1:34 pm

well i just got the trans put in and all filled up with fluid. i backed out of my driveway and heard and felt a pop in the rear end. didn't think anything of at first. well i drove up the street and made a left turn and this time the pop was very loud followed by a grinding noise and the truck would not move. i hurried up and put it in park and the truck kept wanting to roll. the drive shaft was not moving when it was rolling. i had to move it so i put it back in drive, it gave a thud and started to move but i could hear i faint grinding noise in the diff. i pulled into a drive way to turn around and the truck would not move in reverse, the drive shaft would move but not the truck. i thought maybe a broke axle, anyways, i pushed out into the street and drove back home, the whole time i could hear the grinding noise in the diff. i pulled the axles and they are not broke but the right(passenger) axle looks like something was grinding on the end of it. the left side was fine. also, when i tried to pull the axles out, it was like they were in a bind in the diff. i have not pulled the diff cover yet to look in there. i just got back form this adventure and came inside to warm up. any one have any ideas on what could have happened?
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Postby KTA » Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:02 pm

Sounds like blow up spider gears in a limited slip diff. I don't see how that could happen backing out your driveway though??? The only times I ever broke mine was drag racing and getting on it hard.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby skilletky » Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:28 pm

that might have been part of several bangs and booms when the original trans went out two months ago. it aint been drove cents then till today. when the trans went out, i got on it very hard and thats when the bangs and booms happened. what would be the best fix for this little problem?
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Postby KTA » Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:32 pm

An ARB air locker. 8)
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby skilletky » Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:38 pm

i was thinking about that. how much they going for and are they a pain to put in? will i need a new pinion or axles?
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Postby mprmn08 » Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:31 pm

no it will just take the place of your posi or limited slip unit.
93 w250 reg cab. rigged up stock downpipe to 4 inch to 5 inch exhaust from p.o. mild pump tweaks and all other stock for now. Project "smoke a little smoke". www.c-techperformance.com
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:39 pm

Pull the cover off. See whats chewed up.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PToombs » Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:55 pm

If the one axle is chewed up on the end, plan on replacing it. From your sig it looks like you're putting down decent power, so don't take a chance of popping an axle and eating a new $8-900 ARB.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby GO OVRIT » Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:57 pm

Pull the cover and see how bad it is. Pops and bangs put stress on everything, so look beyond the obvious missing teeth and look for hair-line cracks. Personaly if I had to replace the carrier, I'd through a Detroit in there. Every one I've had I've driven daily and have never had any real problems. They're cheaper and easier to install than an ARB, and you don't need a compressor.
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby skilletky » Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:18 am

thanks for all the help everybody!!!. i will probably go with the detroit but i am not sure yet. i have not had time to do any research on any of them. i am gonna pull the cover off today when i wake up to see how bad it is in there and thats about as far as i will go till it warms up outside. putting the trans in outside in my drive way when it was 5 degrees outside was not all that fun. i know pulling the diff won't be no where near as bad, but i am sick of the cold weather. come on summer!! :D :evil:
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Postby skilletky » Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:46 pm

any one know which rear end i got? 91.5 d350 drw auto, 3.73. is it a dana 60, 70, 80?
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Postby randyswelding » Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:44 pm

dana 70U the U is for dodge or so i was told by the dumies at the shop that rering and pinioned mine and put sleaves on(wrong :evil: )then went out of buisness,but im 90%sure ut is an dana70U
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
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Postby skilletky » Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:08 pm

well kta, you were right. all the spider gears are laying in the bottom of the axle housing. not to sure how the truck even made it home. now i can't get the diff to come outta the axle housing. any tricks or tips i should know about to aid in the removal of the diff?
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Postby KTA » Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:49 pm

Technically it is supposed to require a case spreader, but I haven't encountered one yet that I couldn't get out with a big pry bar bumping and working it around the ring gear. You can usually use some 2x4's and block so you can pry against the ring gear bolts to get it started out, then it will bind up and you will have to work from the other side and probably "finesse it with a hammer some too. If you can get it to come straight they do pretty good, get it cocked and you had just as well beat it back in and start over. :roll: This may be pretty obvious of course but make sure the axles are out of it first as well. ;)
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby skilletky » Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:06 pm

ha ha, i got the axles pulled. i used the large prybar method and it came right out. another mechanic i work with has a couple d70 from 92's and he is going to bring me in a diff and an axle to get me going till i get the diff i want. so hopefully i can finally get to drive my truck tomorrow 8)
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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