Got one fender prepped! Took 3 hours to paint strip and sand with 80gr then 100gr then 220 but it is SUPER NICE!!!! I did both sides and took care of 100% of it so I plan to epoxy prime the cab, doors and fenders this week. Just takes MOTIVATION!!!!
If you ever wondered why dodge paint peels, it is because, in my truck's case, they did not use primer! On top of that, the zinc/galvanizing that was on the metal is not a good bonding surface because while I was using scotchbrite on the inside, it was powdery and obiviously not a good suface to paint on.
Yes, taking it down to bare metal is a TON of work but realize this, you HAVE NO IDEA the quality of the paint that is currently on the surface, how well the metal was prepped or what is under the paint! I found on the cab that the floors looked great and the paint was nice but when I took the paint off the metal was starting to corrode underneath! It was not visible from the top side but the factory paint didnt SEAL the suface. The bare metal gives you 110 better adhesion, protection and quality of the product. If you keep the vehicle for a long time, a good paint job lasts 20 years so when it comes time to do it again you just have to take the clear coat off and ruff up the base. Using good products will prevent the extra elbow grease of maintenance down the road, hold up to oxidation better and the paint surface quality is going to be that of a show car. Yes I know, its a truck and it will be worked, but it is a creampuff and I want to make it look good and last. I like doing it right the first time. In the coming years, trucks of this era especially crew cabs will be increasingly harder to find and rust free ones will disappear.
After 80 grit. This was done with an electric Black & Decker DA sander. It is small and meant for small jobs but I have done numerous restorations of tractors, small engines and other metal projects with it.
Just need to weld a couple trim holes closed and delete the antenna mount.