Cummins/82 C10

Cummins Conversion & Builds

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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby dazedandconfused » Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:55 pm

To many differing numbers. I attached the page shot above of the download.
Big Andy
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:56 pm

Pete I bought all the tools ;)
It hurt,but I did it :(
I'll find the post.....if memory serves me right,BC has one.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby dazedandconfused » Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:58 pm

Did you buy them from snapon? I've been thinking about buying what's needed.since I do get a big discount.
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby PToombs » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:00 pm

Mine is an OTC. If you remind me tomorrow, I'll get the number off it, not going out hunting for it tonite. Some of the guys at SOP have seen it, I've used it before.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:05 pm

dazedandconfused wrote:Did you buy them from snapon? I've been thinking about buying what's needed.since I do get a big discount.

Yep snap off kit.

You may be right on the timing Andy.
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Last edited by ellis93 on Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby dazedandconfused » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:14 pm

If anyone has the part number for snap-on timing kit is appreciate them.
Big Andy
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby KTA » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:19 pm

It is easiest and cheapest to just time the truck with a tape measure. You don't need any special tools and you don't need to pull any delivery valves. You can't go by mm lift anyway unless you know the exact pump you have as dodge used different cams in different CPL pumps so you have to know what lift is right for what pump. Assuming the pump you have is correct to your motor the factory timing is marked on the front cover. Then what you do is pull the big 15/16 plug off the side of the gov housing in the back and roll the engine over till you can see what looks like a flat blade screwdriver pointing out the center of the hole. When you took the plug out you can actually turn it around and it should freely slide back in over the blade, this is factory locked time as to how it was installed. When you have it centerd where the plug will slide in and out nice break the gear loose off the front, don't leave the plug in as sometimes they can break. After it is loose stick the plug back in locking the blade. You can then roll the engine over till it is on TDC using the pin in the timing cover. Assuming it was in time already you should be already there. If you want to advance it turn it backwards rotation how ever much you want to advance it and lock it down. Pull all your timing pins back out and lock everything down and you are good to go. You can measure your dampener diameter and determine how much movement is a degree with some basic math. I always just draw a line at the fanbelt when it is on TDC and measure from there. Just remember that at TDC with the pump locked it is already at what the timing cover says so if it says 12deg and you want 16 you only move it 4 advance because it will already be at 12 when the engine is at TDC. Depending on the rpms you operate at, your injectors and how much abuse you want to give your headgasket will determine the best timing. 30+deg for a street truck with 5Kgov springs and big injectors would not be too high.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:31 pm

KTA thank you for your input. The last little bit of info is very much appreciated. I was thinking of applying a timing tape to the balancer as well once I find tdc.

Andy I'll look in the morning.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:18 am

Andy,there is no number on the box the tools came in. I only have individual part numbers from the tools.

I'll ask the snap off guy today. He should be here around lunch time so I'll get it then
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:21 am

Thanks Ellis
Big Andy
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:54 am

Image
It's like it grew.....look for the yellow,that's not suppose to show. It's completely pushed out of the front edge of the cover. I just don't understand how that happens.
Also I think I'll be cutting and turning the down draft tube 90 upward till I get the ag valve cover installed. Bad idea?
Last edited by ellis93 on Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:34 pm

I'm working on this thing on and off thru today and I discombobulated the kill lever/soleniod assembly to install the springs for the gov. When I seen them,as they set from the factory,the top spring seat was very loose. Almost too loose,the nut was very easily moved around and the whole assembly was just wiggling around. Really weird.
Anyhow,I measured the distance from the top of the stud to the bottom of the groove in the nut,came up with .030. The pac brake paper work says .040 to .050,should I keep the factory spec or run what they say?
I would assume the looser the assembly is then the less rpm the engine will see,loose=safe

Your thoughts?
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby ellis93 » Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:37 pm

Mr chapman
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Last edited by ellis93 on Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:10 pm

Thank you Ellis. I told the snap-on rep to get me a catalog next time he comes. He was all out today.
Big Andy
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: Cummins/82 C10

Postby KTA » Tue Oct 28, 2014 4:04 pm

if you have much blowby at all it is pretty easy to blow that tappet gasket out. I always clean them up with brake kleen and super glue them to the cover. Seems to help, so does screwing one of those K&N oil filler breathers in your oil filler pipe. Another vent is way better than pulling the pump to put that gasket back in.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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