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Fastback66 wrote:I done this same conversion earlier this year. I torched the rivets on every cross member from the front bumper back to the rear axle. One at a time of course and re-supported along the way. I did a 2wd to 4wd conversion and a diesel swap at the same time. It was a 1978 2wd crew cab to start with. Not a whole lot of pics but here's a link.
http://s726.photobucket.com/albums/ww26 ... cab%20CTD/
Vinny
lugnutz wrote:Small update:
I got the sending unit out of the Cummins parts truck and the EFI module out of the Ramcharger fuel tank tonight. I put both of them on the table side by side to compare the differences. The extended and collapsed heights of both modules are the same. The float arms go up the same distance. The hole diameter in the tanks and the diameters of the two modules are also the same. I installed the Diesel module into the Ramcharger tank and it went in just like the EFI module came out. Unless somebody can tell me why it won’t work I am going to assume that the Diesel sending will work just fine in the Ramcharger tank and the fuel gauge should read correctly.
BobS wrote:You can splice the frame in the front cab mounting bracket area. You would vertical cut ahead of the body mount down to a predetermined measured point, then go horizontally through the 4 mounting holes with 2 above and 2 below, then continue downward after the rear of the mount to the bottom of the frame. This gives you a standard by using the body mount brackets as a "go or no go gauge" I planned on doing this on my conversion but because of rust issues I ended up using the 2WD frame and converting it to 4WD. I used the original sides of the 4WD diesel frame as templates by bolting them onto the 2WD frame at the cab mounting and bumper bracket mounting locations. I used through bolts to draw it up tight and then used a high quality 7/16" drill bit to bore through the frame. Removing the 2WD engine mounting crossmember is a real PIA. It has 2 rivets per side that go through 3 layers. I used a small scarfing torch and an air hammer with a punch tip to remove the rivets. The drill idea failed because it was ovaling out the rivet holes because there was no way to keep it on center. I burned off the heads until only the round outline of the rivet was visible. Then I smacked it with the round punch on the air hammer which sent a glowing rivet flying across the floor of the garage.
Mark Nixon wrote:On your Ramcharger and Diesel sending units, set both units with the floats pointing in the same direction.
Now look at the orientation of the fuel/return line connectors and you'll see that the original Ramcharger unit has the fuel line connectors oriented @ 180 degrees different from the truck' s Diesel sender.
The solution is as simple as undoing the retainer bolts on the basket slide, and carefully rotating the whole assembly the 180 degrees to fix the problem.
The fuel line fitting assembly will also need re-clocked.
Otherwise, if you try to put the assembly in the tank to make the lines route as they would on a RamCharger the routing of the fuel inlets is wrong.
The sending unit float would also hit the front wall of the tank.
Looking from the REAR of the tank, the fuel line connection assembly is at @ the 1 'oclock position on the R/C.
This is to clear the rear tank support member.
If this is confusing, try putting the diesel module in the same way as the R/C's was and it will become quite apparent.
Mark.
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