a crazzy dual fuel system

[DTanklage]

One nozzle is not spraying right, its must be hung up or something, sprays like a water hose.

well quit fregin driving it and have the whole set figured out on a tester or damage will occur

if it hasnt already ("we saw 120 psi at high rpm")

[DTanklage]

For a tractor pulling truck, this my not be the case, but with A drag truck i agree with seeker1056. With a real fast drag truck, the inertia or weight of the fuel will want to go back to the fuel take on LAUNCH. the bigger the line the more weight.

The bigger the the suction line to the pump, the bigger the pump will need to be to over come the G-force of the fuel.
This could also cause caveatting too....Right.

Maybe this idea works? but there is a lot of "fuel weight" pulling the opposite direction on launch of the truck.
On a Dyno pull, None of this would come into play.


Flash.

no, you are totally correct

that is why my pump (lift pump) is BELOW and BEHIND the tank

[DTanklage]

ps - but for the guys running a piston pump 1/2 line is the way to go (imo)

[ford69557ci]

the problem with the single feed is the fact that the vane pump cannot supply enough fuel for a 14mm h$r and very large injectors and it causes the case pressure to drop tremendously so you feed into the return with say 70 psi like kta has done to keep fuel to the pump when the normal feed and vane pump can keep up with the demand. i have finally figured out my setup. i will be running 3/4 feed to the a1000 then 1/2 to the factory inlet 'which on my pump i am in the process of building' i have drilled out the hole and have tig welded i 1/2 line fitting. then for my secondary i talked to barry grant and they said with the fuel i need to flow and the pressure i want to make i could run two king sumo efi pumps and feed them into one 1/2" line and i should have the flow to make up to 175psi without a problem. then they sell an electronic variable rate fuel pump controller that is boost referenced and that will serve as my regulator for my secondary they said i can adjust the voltage low enough to run 20psi the i can adjust the gain to boost ratio. sounds complicated lol.

[cummins king]

i haven't checked my truck yet but were do you think that i can bolt on a belt fuel pump and is there a belt that will atach to it from the motor out put

[DTanklage]

aaron, with that set up you can do like i was sayin and remove the vane pump entirely

build a dub or triple seal housing to go in its place

why ONLY 175?

hehe

[ford69557ci]

to cummins king. i have a balancer pulley and an ac blacket from a bus that had a p pump 12v and that where i was goin to mount mine and would have been perfect. the problem with belt driven pump is they do not have a very long service life on the street as i found out with the old alky engigine outa my s 10.

to don175 is all those two pumps will make and still move like 60gph and i think i wanna keep the vane pump for timing and try and program this controller to rise at the same rate as the factory case pressure????

[cummins king]

thanks mr ford for the info

[JD730]

One nozzle is not spraying right, its must be hung up or something, sprays like a water hose.

well quit fregin driving it and have the whole set figured out on a tester or damage will occur

if it hasnt already ("we saw 120 psi at high rpm")

Listen, who said anything about driving it, the truck never even moved out of the shop. And figure high rpm right around 2000, no way I would run it WOT right off the bat.

[DTanklage]

.....no way I would run it WOT right off the bat.

oh, i always do so i figured everyone did...

hehe

[DTanklage]

to don 175 is all those two pumps will make and still move like 60gph

for real? i thought they were triple throw down models and could move 60 gals in a minute between the two of them?

[ford69557ci]

at the higher pressure ie 175 the flow rate isnt as high they flow more volume at like 70 psi. new engine or any mods start it up and hammer down some go some blow

[DTanklage]

is his a brand new rebuild?

are the cam and lifters new - if so that changes my whole break in proceedure

roller cam - no break in req; flat tappet different story

new bore and rings first 10 mins most important

got to run it hard - esp on deceleration

thats what i believe any ways...

[ford69557ci]

with the new engine in the s 10 i backed outa the shop got out on the highway that was about 3 min woth of running then i did i burnout to around 150 mph i think i did that about 5 times till the sherrif showed up and thats my break in proceedure lol

[DTanklage]

you know how they tell you at the dealership not to run at a steady rpm when the motor is new?

thats cuz the rings seat on deceleration

its good to run it hard (not wot) in a higher gear, letting off and letting the vacuum created in the crank case pull the metal out of the cross hatch