Swapping in another cam....

[BC847]

I'm blowing all four tires loose (for what 4WD is worth). Got ladder-bars on the rear.

Leaving at less boost? Are you kidding? If I'm gonna be competitive, I've got to take the win in the first third of the eighth, . . . . . if I'm gonna have the win.

[oldestof11]

But if you leave right before they are in full song, theory is less energy is wasted on spinning tires and more on moving the truck forward.

If the tires cannot hook, what good is it to leave it at that? Your 60ft looks great!

Are the ladder bars at all adjustable?

[BC847]

The tires are hooked leaving the line. 10' out of the hole, the boost jumps pretty-much straight to 55 or so psig. It's during that jump in boost that the tires get loose.

The ladder-bars are about 5' non-adjustable bolt-ons. They've held the axle-wrap to date.


On a plus, the WOT smoke is cleaned-up a little more. This is somewhere in 2nd gear . . . .

[oldestof11]

Time for slicks or adjustable shocks to help with weight transfer...

That's a good problem, right?

[BC847]

Time for slicks or adjustable shocks to help with weight transfer...

That's a good problem, right?

Yeah, I reckon it's a good problem, but dang Jon, i just put the Bilsteins on.

Ah, let me try another Thursday night or so to see. Maybe the track will be better.

We'll see.

[PToombs]

That's a good looking truck Dave!
How much air are you running in the tires? The front looks a little light. Can you air them down a little more for a better bite?

[BC847]

That's a good looking truck Dave!
How much air are you running in the tires? The front looks a little light. Can you air them down a little more for a better bite?

Thanks Pete.

My take on what I see in that pic is they all might be too tight. IIRC, hours earlier I checked them all and set to 35psig rear, and 45psig front.

I'll be the 1st to standup and say I'm as dumb as dish-water when it comes to dragstrip suspension tuning. I've been enjoying the benefits of 4WD all this time. If you've been keeping up with my whoreish postings, the traction thing has been slipping in more and more lately (pun intended ).

From what I've read here and there . . .

- Remove a few of the rear spring leafs to soften them up some.
- Caltracs (but then they're geared more toward flat-out racing. Daily-driving runs a different preload). Might have to deal with some compromize in the settings. Need more homework done . ..
- Different tires. Here, I've though about a more street oriented tire (as opposed to the current ATRs), but I can't find something around 30" ~ 32" in a 16". I realize a smaller diameter tire would change the overall ratio and I'd perhaps get there a little earlier, . . . . if I don't run out of gear first, . . .. . or traction.

I dunno . . . Gotta make a few more passes to see if things are consistent.

[BC847]

*Ding!*

- Back off on the W/M start set-point and ramp.

[BILTIT]

I run cal-tracs on my street/strip car, work fine on the street aswell as the strip.

I have been thinking about adding them to my truck.

[BC847]

I need to better understand the function of the Caltracs to better apply them. My current simple ladder-bars prevent any axle-wrap. I know the Caltracs will do the same, but they perhaps put the energy of the axle-wrap into a function with the weight transfer. Seems adjustable shocks would compliment that (as mention above). I've read a number of quick trucks run them with good success.

Crap. . . .

Y'all are too expensive!

[oldestof11]

This is awesome in some regards. As the axle wants to torque upwards, it pushed the bar forward. The bar uses the cantilever setup and pushes down on the spring pack applying the load used to wrap the axle to the tires. Unlike a ladder bar setup, it applies more of a downward force. Ladder bars push up on the frame, lightening either the front or rear by applying the force of the axle wrap up into the frame.

Quite a few guys uses this setup to help with towing.

[BILTIT]

Yup, they call them a poor mans four link.

[ellis93]

BC look here
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

[onefourx]

Difference between cal trac type bar and your current anti wrap bars is cal trac will let the suspension work, the anti wrap bars probably bind during travel.
cal tracs are not a 4 link and dont work like a 4link does. The instant center on a leaf sprung vehicle can only be changed by moving the front leaf eye. (or the side without the shackle) The cal trac works toward making the front section of the leaf as rigid as possible for quicker chassis reaction by controlling the "hit" mechanically (leverage). Shocks would help by controlling the hit as a dampner.
IC up, more anti squat, IC down, less anti squat.
Front axle would need the same sort of treatment.

[PToombs]

Dave, try letting the air in the rear down to 27 or so. Fronts to 35-40. You can do launches on a back road and look at the tracks to see what kind of marks it leaves.
For my 2wd I have a set of tires that look wider than yours, I can't remember what size they are, 10.5 inches wide I think. I had them down to 23psi and launched on a back road, (1 wheel peel then) The truck hooked so hard I almost hit my head on the back of the seat. Driving it was all washy though. I had it at the track after that, and had 27psi in the tires, and I spun thru 2nd and into 3rd before it stopped. I thought I had it at 23psi, but the gauge was off.
I usually run 45 psi in the fronts for everday driving, but I have less weight with the 2wd.