PToombs wrote:Dave, leave the KSB. My truck was on the dyno and did 2 runs, I pulled the KSB wire for the last run, and lost 30 hp instantly. I was shocked to say the least that it helped that much.
My point is to remove the KSB and set the IP timing on the dyno for best performance.
Again, as I understand the function of the KSB, it's most pronounced advance of the timing is in the lower engine rpms. As the engine winds up, the advance provided by the KSB drops back to a much smaller figure. Ignore the numbers, but simply as an example, the KSB provides 8* additional advance @ 1500rpm. At 2000rpm and above, the KSB provides only 2* additional advance.
I'm at the beach and limited to those images available on photobucket. The following image is for the mechanical KSB. Note the pronounced advance at the lower rpms and it dropping back to a lower advance with rising rpm.
![Image](http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u237/BuiesCreek847/VE%20Injection%20Pump/6ceae495.jpg)
The hydraulic KSB as found on our mess presents with a more rounded curve where it's in effect (b).
Drag racing, dynoing, all that mess, we're typically well past 1000 or so rpms. In my case, that additional advance on the bottom only serves to increase the engine rattle as I build up boost at the line. Screw it, Just set the static IP timing those additional couple or three degrees.
I've got a couple of dyno hours so I'll be making multiple stabs with varied IP timing to see what's good for what. I'll most likely make 10, 15 or more stabs on the dyno working out the kinks.
In my mind, removing the KSB simplifies a couple of things elsewhere.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
It's gonna hurt my feelings if, after all this mess, the heap makes less than before. Runs slow at the track.
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)