Help me NOT screw it up . . . .

[BC847]

Well, I've still got some tuning to do to bring this new IP inline with what the original was good for.

With the first pass of the night, I was thinking of leaving the KSB off during launch so as to benefit from the increase in power in the lower engine rpms. Once things wound up, I would then turn on the KSB so as to have it's benefit in the upper engine rpms.


Welp, I made the first pass with my typical launch using 20ish psig of boost. Frigging thing shot straight to 55(+) psig instantly and spun the tires in four wheel drive coming out of the hole. I had to get off it some to regain traction so my ET was slower than I would have liked. . . . . still beat the chit out of a late model Duramax Diesel . . . . . bad.

In the following video, you can see me bring the engine up to about 2200rpm (tach on steering column) with the boost coming up to about 23 or so psig (gauge farthest to the right on the dash). Watch the boost jump to over 50psig when I hit it. You can see me feathering the throttle on the tach afterward.

(I'm running with the rear window closed this vid so you won't hear the exhaust so loud as compared to my other vids).

Best viewed Wide Screen @ 1080dpi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5vA6fZ0DtQ



I only got in three passes tonight with the best being 8.19 (1/8th mile). I tried a couple of different KSB switch combinations along the way. My all time best at this track is 7.97 IIRC.
The first pass, with the KSB off initially (turned it on much too late) and spinning the tires netted a 8.76.
The second pass with the KSB on from the start netted an 8.19
The third pass, I tried launching with the KSB off and then turning it on at about 2500rpm in second gear. Duggum folks! It's HARD to lean forward and stretch your arm out to that little switch while it's pulling through 2nd! Ran a 8.33. Screw it. I took it home.

- The fuel pressure is dropping from 12psig to a little above 10psig at WOT (consistent with the old IP).
- The WOT boost is slightly up @ 56 ~ 58psig (from 55ish).
- The MAX EGTs are about 100* lower @ 1500*F
* I think the variations noted above are possibly due to different injection event timing.

Based on things observed at the dyno the other day, combined with the way things acted tonight, and some other stuff. I've got a good idea what I need to sort out next.


- I've got to install an IP case pressure sensor (as part of the the ISSPRO DATA logging thingy).
- Make and install a timing-tape on the harmonic damper.
- USE this stupid thingy . .. .



- Adjust something else.

[revemup15]

Nice job david

[oldestof11]

I love the last pic!

[PToombs]

Dave, that's a good look for you, you should wear the lab coat to the track.

[BC847]

Thanks guys.

[Sutter1stgen]

Man that thing pulls!

[BC847]

Been busy with work (on call) and haven't done anything other than think about some stuff. In a perfect world, I need to make a tiny version of the main fuel-screw. Perhaps with a no6 size rod (?). Pretty-much going into about a 1/4" plug of steel.

Went to the track this past Thursday again and got a couple of passes in. It's clear the advanced timing has a big effect on power in the different rpm areas. Especially in the higher rpms. IIRC, my mess typically runs around 83ish in the eight @ 8.0x. One setting run Thursday has a much slower ET (8.3x) but with a trap-speed of 84mph. IIRC, that suggests perhaps a higher HP number compared.

Screw it. Backed off the static timing setting so it doesn't rattle as bad in low rpm and went to the beach. It'll be cooler weather next week and I won't be on call.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Any ideas in why your new pump has a more advanced timing than your old one? Does this have something to do with the case pressure?

[BC847]

Any ideas in why your new pump has a more advanced timing than your old one?

I wouldn't be surprised to find I actually installed the high pressure lines advanced one over.

You know, basic chit.

Like actually checking the AFC and finding it doesn't work just before spending good money on dyno time . . . . . twice.

[RCCUMMINS89]

But wouldn't that throw you like 60 degrees off? or 120 crank degrees off? Or am I being retarded?

[BC847]

I don't believe YOU are the retarded one in this conversation.

- A used/working "205" IP locked @ TDC on #1 is removed.
- A new "205" IP locked @ TDC on #1 is installed.

On initial start-up, it's found to be grossly over-advanced. Had to back it off a tooth to get it in the ballpark. I think I know who's retarded here.

Sooo . . . . . .



Having apparently done this, I wonder. Could folks save themselves the headache of pulling the front of the engine to advance the IP gear a tooth, and actually accomplish the same net effect by simply advancing the injector feed-lines one over? Frankly, I don't see why not. One may end up at a different location on the adjustment slots as one tooth may not equal exactly the same advance as moving one pipe over.

Hmm.

[apwatson50]

David,

I've a question about when you re-assembled your new pump. Between the cam plate and the plunger drive is a small button/washer deal. I've recently found out that it is actually a shim and there are actually about 50 different thicknesses from Bosch. What I don't know is how and what a guy is supposed to measure in order to get the right thickness.

Any ideas?

[BC847]

David,

I've a question about when you re-assembled your new pump. Between the cam plate and the plunger drive is a small button/washer deal. I've recently found out that it is actually a shim and there are actually about 50 different thicknesses from Bosch. What I don't know is how and what a guy is supposed to measure in order to get the right thickness.

Any ideas?

Unless I'm mistaken, that selectable-shim is used to adjust the end play of the rotating assembly. Like you, I dunno. It seems like one would have to reach through the timing-tool port in the end of the head and measure there.