Zero Buck Mods!

How to make it go fast

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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby Tacoclaw » Fri Mar 30, 2012 9:52 pm

All trucks/engines/pumps/drivers are different.

You won't hurt anything by drilling out your banjos, even if it didn't give you the same results it gave someone else. Have you taken up the slack in your throttle cable? If you pedal is on the floor is your pump linkage moving as fas as it can?
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby revemup15 » Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:45 am

Is it safe to do a 366 with the banjos drilled output? What's a good way to take slack out of the cable. How I took Charlie's info.... drilling out banjos would fuel to 700 more rpm .... so if you did that without gov spring or high idle delete your truck would fuel to 3200-3400????
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby cmann250 » Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:26 am

I have plenty of RPMs for my taste and I have the 366 (3200 rpm) spring and backed the high speed screw all the way out. Unfortunately, it's not straight forward math. You can't stack up RPMs or power you gain. Stock gov spring is 2800, and with no other mods besides drilling out the banjo bolts, you maybe are turning 3000-3100. I would suspect that with the 366 spring, high speed screw delete, and banjo fittings drilled out you'd maybe hit 3500, maybe 3600. If it makes you feel better, I'd feel safe doing it, but RPMs aren't what I'm after. I have the 3 speed crapomatic trans and I can hit 84mph with the 366 spring and the high speed screw gone. I don't spend much time up in the mega RPM zone :lol:

Throttle cable- I just stacked several washers behind the pedal. Have someone hold the truck at WOT (obviously with it off), push the pedal to the floor and put in as many washers as needed
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby oldestof11 » Sat Mar 31, 2012 11:15 am

Just because you can hit 3500 on a stock spring does not mean you are making full power there. The stock spring makes most of its power before 2600rpm. The 3200, 3800, and 4200 moves the high end upwards.

Drilling out the bolts helps the supply line keep up with the drain on the pump.
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby Tacoclaw » Sat Mar 31, 2012 2:27 pm

What you actually want to do is leave your IP at the idle position, then lay on your florboard and push the top of your throttle pedal all the way back against the firewall. Then, grab the cable and pull it just enough to get the slack out of it. Find something that long that the end of the cable will fit through, pop that plastic stopper off and put whatever you're using on. Then, have someone hold the IP at WOT so you can get the stopper back on and that's it.

Here's mine:

Image

It's a 1 1/2" long piece of 1/8" water pipe. I cut it down it's length and squeezed it into the hole on the pedal some, then put a piece of truck airbrake hose in it to keep it from chafing up the cable.

Seriously, that's a lot of slack. :shock:
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby PToombs » Sat Mar 31, 2012 5:41 pm

The only problem with that is where is the lever on the pump when you are bottomed out? There is a breakover spring on the lever on the pump to prevent damage to the internals. When the pedal is on the floor, the upper lever on the pump shouldn't be bottomed out against the lower lever. Or another way to look at it, when the lower lever is all the way to the stop, screw, casting, or whatever, the upper lever can still move another 1/2" or so. The upper lever only needs to move farther enough to load the spring and hold the lower against the stop. Anymore and you're damaging the pump internals.

I know most of you guys know this, but some do not, so I put it out there. ;)
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby revemup15 » Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:53 pm

Thanks for the picture tacoclaw
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby Black93 » Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:18 pm

I just drilled my banjo bolts out and it made quit a bit of difference. My LP has had one foot in the grave for a while now. I guess it's time for a lppp.


Thanks m880cummins, I thought I'd already done all of the free mods.
1993 W350 LE ext. cab dually, tuned pump, 60mm HX35, NV4500, 4" straight tbe, 366, 1/8" bump, THD fuel pin & lppp, DPS manifold, DFI 5x12's, 3" tubes, PS IC, D80 rear, 3.54's, 4th gen Alcoas.
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby revemup15 » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:16 am

M880 where did you get your nice throttle cable setup
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby cmann250 » Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:39 am

I was over on DTR reading up on a low pressure piston lift pump and I discovered BC847 discovered this banjo bolt porting way back in '08. I'd never heard of it before
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby m880cummins » Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:19 pm

The cable is a Lokar. It is either a throttle or trans kickdown. I cut it to length and then crimped the ends back on.

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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby lopez dodge » Wed May 09, 2012 6:32 am

went ahead and drilled banjo bolts yesterday, figure counldn't hurt. gained about 4-5 pounds of boost coming up to work. not bad for 10 min of work
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby oldestof11 » Wed May 09, 2012 2:16 pm

It helped me alright. Instead of a 2700 rpm defuel point, it dropped it to 2400 rpm. My lift pump wasn't keeping up.
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby directinjktn1stgen » Sun Sep 23, 2012 6:24 am

gobigorgohome whats the legnth on that lokar cable if u remeber i like that it looks really clean without all that linkage goin everywhere
1992 w250 4x4 4" custom turbo back exhaust 5x.012 HVLP lift pump 3200 181/210 M3 fuel pin, gated hx35 auto important meters
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Re: Zero Buck Mods!

Postby Farmboy92_2009 » Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:52 am

all i know is when the trucks gets here, im fixin' to dive in to the pump etc and get er all fixed up with some free mods :)
92 - SOLD. new ride.... 96 CC LB Dually 4x4 auto - Goerend's TD Convertor & HD VB, Autometer EGT/Boost/Trans Temp, 5'' TBE 6'' tip, #100 plate, II Dragonflow 5x.016's, CAI. Sitting in the shed - DDP 042 DV's, 80'' long Trac Bars, and nice purdy Full Replacement Ranchand :) WTB - 4k GSK, 60 lb VS's, and a 64mm turbo.
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