This isn't really a "How To" (unless y'all want me to make one).
Just some pics as I go.
- Start with one 1993 Dodge W250 with a mildly modified Cummins 5.9ltr.
- Now take off the front grill assembly complete, as well as that lower valance thing. Bring the engine to TDC and remove the engine cooling fan, and drain the radiator.
- Now remove the transmission oil cooler and take out the inter-cooler with the AC condenser coil attached.
- Now remove the accessory drive belt, fan pulley, harmonic damper, valve-covers, etc.
Sumbich.
I reckon I used some Blue Locktight on the harmonic balancer bolts in addition to torquing them to factory spec cause they flat fought me to the end. Three of them acted like wheel lug-nuts and initially repeatedly popped as they backed off. That forth one, well, . . .. I split a Kobalt 15mm socket, busted the ratchet mechanism in a in a nice 3/8" ratchet, and ultimately rounded off the flats of the bolt.
Crap! What am I gonna do?
I ended-up using a 4" grinder to cut the head off the blame bolt. I was fortunate that the grinding wheel was worn down to a smaller diameter as it was all I could do to get it into the bowl of the Fluidampr and reach the bolt. Burnt the hair off a few knuckles with the sparks flying dang-it!
- Now pull the rocker-arm assemblies and get your lifter-sticks, trough, lifter-puller stuff together.
- Do the wooden-dowel thing to hold the existing lifters.
- Remove the two bolts holding the cam thrust washer thing and, use one wrench to get a purchase on the cam & gear assembly with another as a handle to work the cam out.
My cheap-ass Chinese steel coat-hanger KDP holder is doing just fine thank you.
The 1st Gen 181/210 series cam on the bottom, the steel 188/220 up top. Things are cooling off as the gear had just been installed on the new cam.
Now sneak the new-boy in there with a bronze thrust-washer. Attach a degree-wheel and pointer at the crank, remove a set of valve-springs, set a micrometer to a valve-stem and find TDC (front and back method). With the rocker-arm assembly in place with test-springs, find the tight-spots and measure it.
Greater than .050" exhaust (<.070" with .020" regular clearance) at around 119*.
Greater than .040" intake (<.050" with .010" regular clearance) I can't remember.
Gotta find some harmonic damper bolts.
Are the damper bolts those torque-to-yield kind? Or just regular high-strength bolts?