Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

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Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby BC847 » Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:57 pm

OK, so you know where everything's at . . .

Image


You know deep-cut fuel-pins can perhaps over-extend the needle thingy resulting in fuel leaking . . ..

Image


So, on my mess, I've modified the profile of that fulcrum-lever's foot (Reverse Lever in image above), (Remember when folks used to grind that foot completely off? :shock: ),

From this . . .

Image



To this . . . .

Image

See the difference?

The idea is that one can have a longer range of motion imparted to the Tension Lever (again, see above image) by the change in the profile of the Reversing Lever's foot. I think it equates to a change in the Ratio in movement there. It's small, but it's there.


The goal being to impart a greater range of motion to the Tension Lever, without such a radical profile of the Control Cone. Should aid in keeping the Guide Pin's range of motion within that of the associated sealing ring.

I'll get pics of the modified article shortly.

:twisted:

Thoughts?
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
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Re: Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:18 pm

Seems legit, I wonder just how far that "Tensioning plate" could move on there? Could it potentially move enough to contact it just below the Reverse lever's pivot point?
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Re: Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby BC847 » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:32 pm

From what I've seen, no. In fact, one has to be somewhat critical about grinding that foot such that, with no movement of the AFC stuff (no boost), that foot is at its normal profile. With the start of the AFC stuff moving, that foot needs to be shaped that one gets an immediate increase, as compared to stock.

If one were to consider the stock foot profile as presenting with a ratio of 1/1, the net effect of this mod might be around a 1/1.15 ratio . . . . at its maximum stroke.
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Re: Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:43 pm

It would be cool to have a blank one to start out with, if the contact point was clear at the bottom of the Reverse lever you could get even better results. Cool mod regardless, but I woulda saved it until after the new injectors to see if it made much difference. :grin:
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Re: Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby BC847 » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:48 pm

I've not done this mod to my new IP as of yet. It was however done to the former IP. ;)

Yeah, I should have all the injector stuff by this Thursday. I'll do the pop-pressure stuff and install by Friday most likely. Need to truck to haul things over the next week or so. ;)
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Re: Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:59 pm

One can also remove material from the afc lever ABOVE where it touches the slide pin.

I gained 3/16" of overall travel with this mod. Travel was measured at the foot of the afc. Funny thing is I also changed my afc foot to be exactly like BC847 did at the same time.

P.S. I still had major issues with both denny pins I have tried..... Even with the longest bosch slide pin. I believe it is because the part that holds my o ring itself is machined just wrong enough that it holds the o ring back farther from the bore..... Make sense?
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Re: Talking about aftermarket fuel-pins 'n leaks 'n stuff . . .

Postby earthdad » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:10 pm

With control cone at shallowest point (bottom under no boost granted smoke screw aint cranked), I noticed the reverse lever still had quite some travel left. This is travel the stock guide pin can't achieve. Guide pin would have to be long enough that it would maximize usable travel of lever while at maximum diameter part of glide pin(or cone) bore.
This picture is of guide pin as far as it should go (fully inside seal ring).
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii4 ... 04ee51.jpg

Mines (o-ring) on the outside of guide pin bore also! I dont know how much more length there is on different bosch pins, but I would think from the diagrams, that any grinding or profiling of the foot should accompany a longer guide pin. And any longer guide pin installed without trimming foot would push tensioning lever too far back.

How much more usable movement of tensioning lever is there? Is there more fueling capability to warrant this?
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