head bolt/stud dilemma

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head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby josh_6bt » Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:11 pm

I'm taking the next step with my 92 and finally bought head studs and injectors. I just need some opinions to help me decide how to proceed with my dilemma. ideally I would like to install all my new parts at once with the head in place (sticks, studs, valve springs and valve stem seals) but removing the rocker arm pedestals for machining leaves a whole row of bolts removed and the head un torque on the drivers side which I highly doubt is good for the head gasket, (am I wrong to think this?). So I was thinking of just leaving the stock bolts in place and doing studs when the head gasket actually blows. In the time being am I better off to retorque the stock bolts? A part of me wants to but the other half is paranoid as hell of breaking bolts :shock: . What do you guys think is best to do? need suggestions. Thanks gents.
1992 W250 EC, 5 speed, 3.54s, 175hp p-pump, timed @ 16.5, #100 fuel plate, 4k GSK, 5x14, .024 DV, head studs, 60lb VS, 4" exhaust, BHAF, cooler tubz.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby revemup15 » Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:38 pm

Retorque your head bolts... stud it when she blows... when it blows make sure you run a tap in all the holes to clean the treads
89 w250 14mm h/r in the works, aeromotive, 63/68 coming soon
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby Tacoclaw » Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:43 pm

What brand of studs did you get?

Honestly I'm not too sure you could pop your gasket with your mods and retorqued bolts. Pull them out one at a time in sequence, clean the threads on a wire wheel and lube them with clean oil, then put them back in and retorque to stock #'s. After the last one, do a few laps setting them up to 125 or wherever you're taking them to.

If you're wanting it to last like this until you have time to pull it down and do it right, just retard your timing a bit. It'll help keep cylinder pressures down and definitely reduce stress on the HG.
1990 W250 4x4
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby josh_6bt » Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:10 am

Thanks fellas, I give that a go.
1992 W250 EC, 5 speed, 3.54s, 175hp p-pump, timed @ 16.5, #100 fuel plate, 4k GSK, 5x14, .024 DV, head studs, 60lb VS, 4" exhaust, BHAF, cooler tubz.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby josh_6bt » Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:12 am

O and I bought ARP studs.
1992 W250 EC, 5 speed, 3.54s, 175hp p-pump, timed @ 16.5, #100 fuel plate, 4k GSK, 5x14, .024 DV, head studs, 60lb VS, 4" exhaust, BHAF, cooler tubz.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby PToombs » Tue Nov 27, 2012 6:28 pm

The other option is to buy a set of pedestals and get them cut, then swap them out. You definitely want to bottom tap the head bolt holes before installing your studs, and it's way easier with the head off.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:31 pm

351s love to blow gaskets.
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:49 pm

Do they have a tiny exhaust housing on them or something? I suppose anything's possible, but I ran my S300 at 40+ psi quite often with it's 12cm housing and it never gave me gasket problems with stock timing and retorqued bolts.
1990 W250 4x4
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:16 pm

It's not so much the exhaust housing as much as the size of the wheel. See a s300 has a 65 size wheel the exhaust exits out... where as the 351 is a 60. Also stock timing plays a HUGE part in the head gasket.... but what fun is stock timing?
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:20 pm

I ordered my 5x14's with the wide spray pattern to match my bowls.

I guess you missed this part. :P. I ordered a set with a 155* angle. I DD my truck, I rarely race it and dyno #'s mean about squat to me, especially horsepower. I'm happy with a torquey truck.
Last edited by Tacoclaw on Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
1990 W250 4x4
Rattles, growls, whistles, and whines.
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Tacoclaw
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:09 pm

I'm not following you on why you are stuck at stock. You have non i/c pistons, right? You can run more timing and stay within the bowl when one has the 145 as opposed to the 155s. What am I missing?
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby revemup15 » Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:04 am

Tacobell doesnt like to make power lol
89 w250 14mm h/r in the works, aeromotive, 63/68 coming soon
94 p-pump
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Re: head bolt/stud dilemma

Postby Tacoclaw » Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:20 am

Whoops. Edited instead of posting. Oh well, there it is up there. ^
1990 W250 4x4
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