A1 head studs

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A1 head studs

Postby cummins king » Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:44 pm

I got my motor back together and A1 head studs do not fit under our valve covers, you have to drill a hole in the valve covers to fit the studs

and it will end up looking like this

Image

lol, oops not that one

this one

Image
93 4X4 auto
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Postby Richie O » Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:46 pm

Im speechless :shock:
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Begle1 » Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:37 pm

That seriously struck you as the best solution? :lol:
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby ccoxva » Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:01 pm

THE SHIRT SHOULD SAY HOLY SHIT THIS REALLY HAPPENS :hs: ????
1991 N/I 250
1996 Dodge 3500 Ex. Cab Dually 19.5's
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Postby PToombs » Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:30 pm

CK, I'm going to be brutally honest. That looks like crap! :shock:
You need to step back and rethink that whole thing. Can you cut the tips off the studs? And grind the inside of the valve cover to get clearance?
Maybe make a spacer to fit under the cover, use a longer bolt so it sits a little higher and clears the stud?

I really think a "do over" is needed here.
Good luck!
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Richie O » Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:44 pm

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Begle1 » Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:52 pm

PToombs wrote:CK, I'm going to be brutally honest. That looks like crap! :shock:
You need to step back and rethink that whole thing. Can you cut the tips off the studs? And grind the inside of the valve cover to get clearance?
Maybe make a spacer to fit under the cover, use a longer bolt so it sits a little higher and clears the stud?

I really think a "do over" is needed here.
Good luck!


If you can't cut the tops off the studs, you could at least JB Weld or tig little caps on the valve covers instead of... Using grease...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby TWorline » Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:22 pm

I was thinking about putting studs in as well, does anybody know if they make Blue silicone? Gotta keep everything color coordinated.
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby PToombs » Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:40 pm

Begle, pretty sure that's "Ultra Copper" RTV. ;)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby fergavs » Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:53 pm

WOW. I don't even know what to............ WOW!!!! You.... drilled holes........Your just kidding right???? On my ARP studs I had to clearance the webbing on the underside of the cover slightly for stud clerance. If I couldn't have fit the studs I would have either bottom taped the holes (i should have anyway) or got different studs. I just can't believe you did that. Good luck!
1990 Dodge D350 Duallie 2wd, Piers ported, ringed,HD springed,ARP studed head,S300,PS IC,Custom EDM's,Max Spool 2 Cam,BD built 47RH auto,Meth,5" Exaust, AD 150, Punched VE Mod,2 Stage Nos,etc.
92 4x4 47RH,06 Turbo,6" with 40's on 20's,6" Stack
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Postby Begle1 » Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:04 pm

PToombs wrote:Begle, pretty sure that's "Ultra Copper" RTV. ;)


Ah, well. that's slightly better...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby SNOOT » Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:19 pm

I thought it was standard to have the rocker mid section milled down so the stud and nut went further down?
1993 W350
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Postby Begle1 » Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:21 pm

SNOOT wrote:I thought it was standard to have the rocker mid section milled down so the stud and nut went further down?



It is, along with bottom tapping and clearanceing the valve covers.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby PToombs » Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:39 pm

Begle1 wrote:
SNOOT wrote:I thought it was standard to have the rocker mid section milled down so the stud and nut went further down?



It is, along with bottom tapping and clearanceing the valve covers.


Well, it is for most people! ;)
pete

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Postby burnt_servo » Sun Feb 08, 2009 5:03 am

what about somehow getting the studs to sink deeper into the block ?
'93 w250 .... stock ...
curently removing the dead moose parts ....
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