by oldestof11 » Sun Jun 24, 2012 11:52 am
Being 2wd, it will be slightly harder to stick the Cummins in as you cannot drop the engine with a custom front crossmember. I tried to do a C10 Suburban (wished I would have finished it now.) conversion.
Things to think about:
Using 1st Gen mounts and brackets, cutting the radiator support to set the 1st gen radiator in it, I was able to have about 1 inch of room between the firewall and the engine. There was no room to bolt up the 727 auto trans without massaging the firewall or attaching it to the engine before it was set in place. This way put the oil pan within 2" of the front crossmember. It allowed for some engine movement so the pan didn't crush on the front crossmember. This also put the stock 1st Gen fan close to the radiator, like 1.5"-2".
You need a 2nd Gen intake horn if you are using an intercooler to help clear the master cylinder and brake booster.
I don't know how thick the SAE #3 (or #2) adapter plate is for the RTO tranmissions. If it is thicker than the stock 1st Gen plate, then firewall massaging is needed.
Custom downpipe is needed to clear the HVAC. In fact, I took a 3rd Gen manifold and ported the round ports to match the engines square ports. This put the turbo down and towards the back of the engine. The downpipe needed a tight 90* bend to clear the engine adapter. However, depending on where the starter is put with a SAE adapter plate, you are on your own.
Speaking of starter, it was just fine. A little tight but fine.
All in all, the width between the frame rails of the 1st gen and a C10 Suburban was within 2", the 1st gens being bigger.
Custom transmission crossmember is needed. The Suburban was a 350/700R4. That cross member was perfect for the Cummins/727 as it sat. All it needed was a custom trans-member adapter.
Also, the Cummins might have needed a cowl hood to help clear.
Just some things I remember.
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow