'90 W250--'89/91/92 Ramcharger

How to make it go fast

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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:57 pm

Yup, it's just kind of pathetic. Sometimes being as nice as I am works in my favor and people seem to enjoy actually return the favor in making sure I'm taken care of, other times it seems like they think I'm a sucker they can bend over without worrying about it.

Kinda sucks, I just don't have it in me to be a legit huh? t people, even when they deserve it. t has definitely cut down on the amount of dealing I do anymore. :?


Oh! Another thing, I was sniffing around on piping with a SC/turbo. Since I didn't want to pay what Carl was wanting for his bypass setup, I was planning on running my blower after the turbo. This would introduce a lot of heat and boost to the SC which is bad. I was considering putting my SIS cooler back in between stages, but didn't like the thought of the hassle. So I dug up an old thread on CompD about using a throttle body, start sniffing around, and find some extra-sweet Chinese LS6 92mm throttle bodies. They flow ~1200cfm, which is the rated flow for the Pro52, so it should be plenty for my application.

I figure I'll take it's return spring out and use a low psi wastegate actuator to open it. Play around with an electric switch/valve to get it to open at the right time, then enjoy.


Thoughts?
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Sun Jun 16, 2013 6:32 am

Well, I had to work until noon yesterday and the dyno shut off at 3 so I didn't make it on there, then I bought those 3rdgen wheels and ended up giving them to dad for Fathers Day. Oh well, at least I got to eat at Waffle House while I was out. :lol:

Also, I changed fluids in the truck before the trip, engine, transfer, and both rearends. The locker had been acting really crappy lately, not wanting to lock and making a bunch of noise, I was expecting the worst when I pulled the cover off. Teeth missing, springs missing, chunks laying in the bottom of the diff.

I whipped it off there and that locker looked brand new. The fluid was all milky and nasty, but there wasn't even a scuff on the locker teeth. I threw it back together with some special 85-90 grease we had in the shop, really tacky stuff we bought to try in our screen deck's bearings. That brought the locker right back to functionality, no more random unlocking or horrible noises.

I even laid a fat set of posis in front of Tyler's house last night, grabbed third and kept it rolling without a single whimper from it. That would have been completely impossible before I changed that grease. I'm withholding judgement until I get some more miles on it, but so far I'm happy again.
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Re: '90 W250

Postby cmann250 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:53 am

Tacoclaw wrote:Oh well, at least I got to eat at Waffle House while I was out. :lol:

If impending gastrointestinal doom is the highlight of your day, I feel sorry for you friend. :lol:
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:11 am

You just go suck down some Pepto, grandpa, some of us are manly enough to handle delicious food.
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Re: '90 W250

Postby ellis93 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:50 am

Tacoclaw wrote:You just go suck down some Pepto, grandpa, some of us are manly enough to handle delicious food.

Yeah I use to think the same way......till I ate at a bad waffle house. :pottytrain:

Trying to find a restroom in down town New orleans,on one way "screets" :lol:, ain't fun
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:06 pm

Grabbed some new wheels, not the 3rdgen wheels I was looking for but I think I like these a bit better. H2 wheels, no spacers and 295/70/17 Nitto AT's. Only slight rubbing anywhere on the truck, even at decent flex, was at full lock right it rubbed the draglink at the steering box end.

Image

Image

Then I decided to throw on the spacers I bought in anticipation of 3rdgen wheels. 1-1/2" front and 2" rear. Still no rubbing, though I haven't flexed it much with these on yet.

Image

Image

Daddy likey, and they're big enough that they won't look ridiculous with the 2-3" lift the RC will end up with.
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Re: '90 W250

Postby cmann250 » Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:25 pm

Ya know Levi, if you're going to take a picture and post it on the internet for millions of people to see, you could at least take your pink underwear off the clothes line in the background :lol:
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:33 pm

I needed them dry ASAP, got a hot date tonight. I ran into Hineman a Walmart last night and now h knows I wasn't actually sick.

I was just avoiding him.
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Re: '90 W250

Postby PToombs » Sun Jun 23, 2013 5:59 pm

Caleb, way more than a thong there, so they can't be his! ;)

Levi, get some hubcaps! :roll:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: '90 W250

Postby cmann250 » Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:21 pm

PToombs wrote:Caleb, way more than a thong there, so they can't be his! ;)

Touche :lol:
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:02 pm

Meh, I've never been much of a hubcap guy.

I could put some of those Dodge ones on there but they're all chrome AFAIK and that would look stupid. I'll keep an eye out for my options.
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:11 am

Question for everyone, is the core support the same between both grill styles on non-IC'd trucks?

I've got Tyler's old 2wd up on the hill and I'm wanting to tinker around with a flip front end. I'm wondering if my '90 style grill would bolt onto his '91 style core support.
1990 W250 4x4
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Tacoclaw
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Re: '90 W250

Postby cmann250 » Fri Jun 28, 2013 9:53 am

I want to say no because the headlights sit differently in the later style grilles.
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"Whatever!" - Coach Jerry Smith
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:25 am

Bah, oh well. I was hoping to transfer the whole shebang over once I figured it out but I guess I'll just tack around and transplant it over later.

Thanks, mang.

(And Hineman who texted me about it)
1990 W250 4x4
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Re: '90 W250

Postby Tacoclaw » Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:14 pm

Well, I started fiddling around with the flip front this evening. I watched Two Lane Blacktop and it gave me some ideas to try out on this thing. :lol:

I notice people either mess with some kind of sliding mechanism or seperate the bottom bit of the rear of the fender to prevent interference of the fender and door. On that movie, those guys pull a pin and the natural spring of their fiberglass pops the fenders out away from their doors. Me likey that thought, so I went about seeing what was up.

So far I'm thinking that the lowest portion of the fender, that wraps under the front of the cab and has a bolt for it and one or two for the inner fender, can vacate the premises. Simply pinning he lower part of the fender would hold it in where it needs to be, I would think. The inner fenders would stay in place on the frame, most of my work is done on the passenger side and since the only thing mounted there is my heat exchanger tank I could make that side easier to take off. The driver's side has more crap mounted on it and since I don't do much work over there I don't think it would hurt anything to have the inner fender take a bit to get completely off. More research and thoughts on this later.

The biggest obstacle I've found so far is that letting the bottom of the fender spring out causes it to rotate around the spot where it sits and causes interference at the contour around the windshield frame, well, that and my welding is freaking terrible. First attempt with my temporary hinges resulted in immediate breakage of my weld. :lol:

I've got to remount the hood and play around with the bracing in the fender to see what I can do about getting it to spring in the right areas around the door.

I like it, the longer I Dick with this the longer my Dodge stays together. :mrgreen:
1990 W250 4x4
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