Where's all the 5.9 air to water aftercoolers??

[gman07]

http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/sho ... 90/cat/500

^ There's a link to the gallery, just copied the URL from the browser.

and here's the pic of the twins plumbing:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/dat ... re_006.jpg

[seeker1056]

thanx GMAN

[bgilbert]

Well disbelievers;)... I now am an owner of a brand new air to water aftercooler, stock B Series of course, I'll pass on the silly gasser trash type coolers, JMO. Oh and a new set of VE injection lines. Got it from a Case NH/IH dealer. Much cheaper than new from Cummins, almost half the price.

Now I am just gathering up all the other parts I need for the swap. Will be getting a 16 gallon ATV spot sprayer tank and Shurflo 3 gpm electric water pump. For the street, a transmission cooler would be good, but for now, since my truck is a dyno queen, I plan to keep the $200 it would cost for one, and just run cold water to and hot directly back into the 16 gallon tank. Should work for dyno runs.

I should have all this done for IRP June 2nd. I don't think I'll have it done along with rebuilding my getrag to dyno in Bowling Green May 11. Maybe then I will be able to make a good comparison between the air to air and air to water cooled dyno setups. For highway use, sure the air to air is king. But for what I do, I think this will work better.

I have to thank KTA, Brian Block for all his help up to this point. I have received priceless R&D info and assistance on all this. I suppose he's just looking for someone to get him motivated to get his truck back out on the dyno , except he don't have to worry about me. Being turbo challenged, and no port and head work, I don't see 600hp in my future anytime soon. Pretty much everything I have done to the engine has been bolt on. If I only had that machine work money, then I'd be set. Head, valve work etc.... I'll let everyone know how it works and will get pics up when everything is done.

[90firstgen]

Sounds awesome Bill! Can't wait to see pics and hear the results! Where'd you find the cooler at?

[JLeonard]

That's great Bill. Glad you found a set up. After the dyno runs are complete, are you going to run coolant thru it for street use?

Jay

[NYCEGUY01]

I ran a a t w setup on my chevy 6.5 before I went with the a t a.
I found that you can buy a ford waterpump from a lightning truck ar a mustang fairly cheap. They both have a t w i/c on thier superchargers.
That pump is the correct volume and flow etc... and even new from ford are less than $100
I used a Fluidyne radiator for a shifter cart. Small lightweight but very efficient for making hot water into cold water.
The last item I used was an overflow from a crashed motorhome. Basically a 3-4 gallon steel box with a radiator cap on the top and various hose connections on the tank.
The system worked very well.
I went to the a t a just to keep it simple. No hoses ,pumps, and wiring etc..
On a truck built to dyno it would have been ideal.
You could pour a bag of ice in the tank and even without a fan in the amount of time on the dyno your intake air temp would be super low

[seeker1056]

This is soooooo easy to do!!!

Git to the bus line wreckin yard, and fetch home an under seat, water heater with entegral dual fans, and also the 12 volt water pump for same. Should run about $10.00 each.

Then git yourself an old heater core from the same bus, again about $10.00

These are all 1" lines so you get good flow. Hell ya can even salvage the lines if you like.

Now mount the heater assembly to the bed floor, ( or hang it under the bed) and the pump right next to it. Then mount an old ice cooler beside that. Now run a line into the old cooler and attach the bus heater core in the bottom,

Then run your two lines up to the water/air intercooler. Place a T in the line at the highest point to allow u to fill it.

Run a 12v relay on 10 guage wire to the box and hook up the pump and fans.

Fill with anitfreeze. On race or dyno day also fill the cooler with ice around the heater core.

Total cost about $60.00 includin antifreeze. Labour is free. I might have two hours in this part of the install.

Charge temps are between 80-120 degrees with this setup dependin on ice and run time.

As for needin a "real" cummins water/air intercooler - I say bullpuckey - the aftermarket race intercoolers are far better efficiency and have larger inlet/outlets - and way cheaper....and you dont have to change your injector lines!!!!


KISS....lol

[PToombs]

How much simpler can you make it than stock? No cobbing to put in the cooler and lines! The stuff in the bed is all easy too. I'm glad Bill has all this time for R&D, I can't find time for my cab swap!
Bill, I told ya you could find that stuff for the right price!

[seeker1056]

Stock but expensive - o well to each their own..

Show me the pictures, show me, lol so I can se what stock looks like.

[JLeonard]

seeker1056 that does sound pretty easy and I agree that the Cummins units are somewhat restrictive.

Try dry ice next time if you really want some cold air.

[bgilbert]

That's great Bill. Glad you found a set up. After the dyno runs are complete, are you going to run coolant thru it for street use?

Jay

For summer/street use, I will just run tap water through it via the electric water pump. Winter use, some RV antifreeze or antifreeze mixture to keep things from freezing. Maybe later down the road I will get myself a transmission cooler with fan and plumb it in the return line to the tank in the bed.

I still don't see how this can be anymore restrictive than blowing air through a 1st gen intercooler. Both look like heater cores to me .

I can't wait to see how well it works with 32*+- cooled air. I know how much of a HP increase I saw when I went from non-intercooled to a 1st gen intercooler. It was night and day. Hopefully I will see more:) .

[JLeonard]

Bill, I meant running coolant from the engine block thru the aftercooler.
I know you always complained about no heat in the cab. This should help a little bit plus eliminate a system to maintain.

[seeker1056]

Never ever run plain water through any kind of core assembly.

It is the surest quickest way to a leak due to corrosion of the core that there is.

There is electrolytic action at all times that eats a core and the plain water just accelerates that.

You must use a proper mix of glycol if you dont want to replace that expensive intercooler.

If ya dont beleive me look at the warranty card on any heater core today and they all read in a similar fashion as this ; " Failure to make sure all of the grounds are in place and correct voids any warranty claims" etc etc

It is my understanding this is the number one reason the PRO 5 guys are havin to replace thier intercoolers - leaks caused by high boost and weak cores due to corrosion usin dry ice and plain water

And hey - theyre only runnin 30 psi

[KTA]

Maybe its cuz those coolers are aluminum. The cummins cooler is copper cored. I run rv antifreeze in mine year round and have for 5 years and its not been a problem. The copper water pipes in my house are 50 years old and they havent been eaten up yet either, so perhaps its the material, or maybe mine is ready to fail and i dont know it yet. Granted i realize my house pipes arent a cooler, but guys always used to always run plain water in the tractors radiators for years back in the 30's-the 50's and alot of those radiators are still around today as long as they used distilled water and not tap water. Our water is really hard here and tap water will junk a cooler or radiator really fast by plugging it up.

[bgilbert]

Bill, I meant running coolant from the engine block thru the aftercooler.
I know you always complained about no heat in the cab. This should help a little bit plus eliminate a system to maintain.

No, this truck doesn't run much if any during the winter/cold months. It actually has a newer/bigger heater core and has good heat. It's the new 91.5 that has crappy heat and takes time to warm up. I took care of this last winter by getting an old 75 Dodge gasser 4wd truck for quicker heat. For next winter I'll probly sell it and get myself a beater car to drive in the winter for good heat and do better on gas. 5-7mpg is hard on the wallet.

I've done a few heater cores and did read some of the fine print. I suppose I will see how much distilled water runs at the store and how much RV antifreeze is. I'll be needing at least 16 gallons as the resevoir is that size. Not sure how much the cooler holds. It's too expensive to ruin. Then again, how long is it gonna take to ruin, 10 years?