Hmmm, I have a similar problem to Begle1...:(

[EMIEVEL]

1992 D250
Cummins (of course)
Getrag
220K miles
ALL STOCK!

I was driving across country and I started to lose power at higher RPMs (no tach). The problem came and went a couple times. I noticed my battery cable clamps were trashed and I wasn't getting a good connection. That seemed to fix the problem for about 4000 miles. Then the truck was parked for about 3 weeks and it never ran the same.

From there it wouldn't pull high RPMs again. The problem progressed pretty bad in about 50 miles to the point it wouldn't pull 50MPH up the hills on the freeway. Then it wouldn't start.

I replaced the filter, no luck. I replaced the transfer pump and it ran for about 45 minutes, then blew a bunch of white smoke and died. It hasn't started again.

Before I start hanging any more parts, what should I check first? I think it's the injection pump, but I'm not very knowledgable about these motors, which is why I'm here; to learn.

Because of the 140 gallon capacity, I have been running off the same fuel for over 1500 miles, so I don't think it's bad fuel.

Thanks for the help! I did a little searching and Begle1's problem seemed very similar. Are cracked lines or air leaks common?

Thanks again,
Chris

[Begle1]

It does sound like the problems I was having.

My truck hasn't been reliable for the last two months. I would get it running, do something, and it would be good for about 50-150 miles before stalling again. Changed all the fuel in the tank, changed the filter, cleaned the sock, pressure tested the sender, pressure tested the entire fuel system, replaced all the fuel lines from the tank to the lift pump, replaced the lift pump, et cetera et cetera.

I finally replaced the injection pump a couple weeks ago, and after it fixed the timing it ran fine for 50 miles before I put it on blocks to swap the transmission. And it's still on blocks. So I'm really not even sure that the injection pump fixed anything.

I'm hoping that my problem was the IP. As soon as I finish my transmission install I'm taking it on a 500 mile road trip, so that should verify whether the IP was the problem.

I hate to see somebody else going through this nightmare, but at least I know I'm not crazy.

[flashgordon]

If you can bleed the injectors and it starts..........I wound be looking for a air leak. in the suction and return lines.

Have you tried pumping the lever on the lift pump.............

Is it possible that you fuel gauge is off, and your out of fuel?

It's probably you Injection pump, but i would be doing a lot of test to make sure you getting clean, air free fuel to the pump before you replace it.

How long has it been since you replace your fuel filter?.......get any water out the drain?

Flash.

[EMIEVEL]

If you can bleed the injectors and it starts..........I wound be looking for a air leak. in the suction and return lines.
When I changed the lift (transfer) pump, I bled the fuel lines on the passenger side of the engine, right before they go into the head. I think that is where I'm supposed to bleed them, right? I would crack the fitting loose, crank the engine until I saw fuel, then tighten and go to the next one. Is that the correct procedure?
After doing all 6 lines, the truck fired right up and ran great, except fuel was leaking from the IP. (pictures below) I ran it for a little while, shut it off and went to bed. The next morning it fired right up but didn't leak anymore! It ran for about 35 minutes while I jockeyed trailers around my yard, then it quit running again. It hasn't run since.

Have you tried pumping the lever on the lift pump.............
Yes, and it didn't start.

Is it possible that you fuel gauge is off, and your out of fuel?
No. The truck has done it for a little while now...off and on. I usually wouldn't even do anything and it would sort of 'fix itself'!

It's probably you Injection pump, but i would be doing a lot of test to make sure you getting clean, air free fuel to the pump before you replace it.
I agree, but I'm not really sure how to test it. I'm trying to research the board, remodel my house, get a new job, raise a Great Dane pup, and please my wife all at the same time, and I mean 'please' her by doing all of the above!

How long has it been since you replace your fuel filter?.......get any water out the drain?
I replace the air, fuel and oil filters every 10K miles. I also just replaced the fuel filter when I replaced the lift pump. No water.
Flash.

Here is where it was leaking: (sorry for the blurry pic)



This is the truck. I bought it for $2K with an electrical problem. I had to do some transporting so I dumped another $2500 into it to make it reliable (tires, brakes, belt, tensioner, fan pulley bearing, etc). It's been very good to me and I put 45K miles on it in 3 months without a single issue. The truck has been hit pretty hard on the passenger side.



I plan on pulling the motor and putting it in my motorhome...or maybe an old Lincoln with suicide doors. I'm not sure yet.


I'd like to get the motor to run as strong as my '03 HO. Is that possible without risking reliability?

Thanks

[flashgordon]

Well here is one more thought..........that i just learned my self.

when you pump the lever on a stock diaphragm pump, you MUST push the lever all the way up. you will fill a little detente that hold the lever up.
It worth a 2nt look.

loosen the line to the IP and pump the lever until you get bubble free fluid.
Tight and pump several more times.
then crack the injector lines and see if you get a good spray.............if one or more never get too the spray......and will not start, well............

there's really no way to test the IP(that i know of) with out taking it off. and having a pump place test it.

You just need to be positive that the fuel is with out air, all the way thru before pulling the IP.

Flash.

[EMIEVEL]

Thanks Flash. I'll go test like you just said.

So, where do I check on this board for purchasing a new or rebuilt IP? I live in Apple Valley, CA and am willing to travel a ways to get the parts I need.

Thanks!

[PToombs]

You have fuel leaking from the throttle shaft. Have to pull the cover to replace the O-ring. The bushing may be bad too, with that many miles. While the cover is off, spend the $20 on a governor spring. You'll like the difference!

[gear jammer 91"]

This is a long shot but I have heard of people having some sort of junk in their fuel tank that would roll around and intermittently block the fuel pickup. I'm not sure where the fuel pickup is in our tanks but maybe, some how it is getting blocked by something. I know it's a long shot.

[PToombs]

Maybe, but I doubt it. The pickup has a nylon sock on the end, and is in the middle of a plastic sleeve about 6 inches in diameter. The return and pickup are in there, gauge is fastened to the side.

[Ace]

I'm a visually-oriented kinda guy. Gotta see it to believe it, ya know. I've seen alot of topics and issues discussed on the forums refering to air-leaks in the fuel lines. So I installed a sight glass on my mess of a fuel system. Found it on eBay last year for like $5 IIRC.

Don't know if it will ever help me or anybody else, but it's there. It has Viton seals so it's good to hold up with #2 fuel. It's that thing near the bottom of the pic by the rag joint, inlne with the fuel source. You can see the little paddle wheel start to move when you give it some throttle, so you know there's flow there. And of course, if there's ever any air coming through the line that should be pretty obvious as well.

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/C ... CTD_95.jpg

[EMIEVEL]

I think it's leaking air. I disconnected the fuel line at the transfer pump and hooked up a vacuum pump. It sucked fuel but it had a lot of air, and it wouldn't hold the vacuum.

Tomorrow I will drop the tank and carefully inspect the fuel line. I can't work too fast or for too long due to injuries from a motocross career, but I have to be up and running by the end of the week.

I'm leaving on Friday for another 10K mile trip!

Chris

[cummins king]

check if the lines between the lift pump and the ic, see if they are twisted, or broke, i had a guy that had the same problem, and you would never know unless you take them off, in his truck it would run for a little while, then he would just start to lose rpms the truck would stall stall and not run, and also the truck would blow white smoke.

[Begle1]

One problem spot for leaks is the hard line that goes from the bleeder bolt to the injection pump; it is actually two lines bolted together, and the bolt tends to loosen up.

[EMIEVEL]

One problem spot for leaks is the hard line that goes from the bleeder bolt to the injection pump; it is actually two lines bolted together, and the bolt tends to loosen up.

I was applying vacuum to the plastic line at the point it connects to the lift pump, and it was getting a lot of bubbles and would not hold vacuum. So, it looks as though my problem is between the lift pump and fuel tank.

I'm going to work on it tonight...wish me luck!

Chris

[EMIEVEL]

One problem spot for leaks is the hard line that goes from the bleeder bolt to the injection pump; it is actually two lines bolted together, and the bolt tends to loosen up.

I was applying vacuum to the plastic line at the point it connects to the lift pump, and it was getting a lot of bubbles and would not hold vacuum. So, it looks as though my problem is between the lift pump and fuel tank.

I'm going to work on it tonight...wish me luck!

Chris