frame cracks, deal killer?

[o00otii]

Hey guys. I've been on the hunt for and a club cab w250. If there is a crack from the steering box is that a deal killer for you? I've been researching post on repairs and such, but seems like it is such a prevalent issue that it might be harder to avoid than just repairing it.

Also I haven't seen an definitive pics, but doesn't that area of frame span the spring mounts? I would imagine that is a more critical area to repair due to the spring forces on either side.

[hydroshok]

Your best bet would be to post pics here or on a welding forum. Tons of opinions are out there about welding to the fame as it is hardened and the heat from welding may weaken it. I had to get a trailer welded before I learned how to weld and the shop that did it told me it would most likely develop a crack later from heat weakening it. I never had another problem though. I've welded gooseneck hitches to the frames of several trucks since without any trouble. If you can weld; chances are it will be a cheap, permanent fix.

[bmoeller]

If you weld it up, the best thing to do, would be to preheat the area to weld, then weld it.

[Fred_M1010]

Your best bet would be to post pics here or on a welding forum. Tons of opinions are out there about welding to the fame as it is hardened and the heat from welding may weaken it. I had to get a trailer welded before I learned how to weld and the shop that did it told me it would most likely develop a crack later from heat weakening it. I never had another problem though. I've welded gooseneck hitches to the frames of several trucks since without any trouble. If you can weld; chances are it will be a cheap, permanent fix.

I'm pretty sure the frame isn't hardened, if it was it would be really bad, as hardening makes it more brittle.
It's no big deal to weld a frame, just don't cool it of by throwing a bucket of water on, then it will crack.
A cracked frame could even be a good thing, when negotiating the price.
And it will probably crack sooner or later anyway, so might as well get it fixed right away.

[hydroshok]

People always told me frames were hardened metals so it was a bad idea to weld them. Is it that these old trucks did not use this process?

[BobS]

Section 13 - 29 of the 1992 Dodge 150 - 350 rear wheel drive truck Service Manual published by Chrysler Corp recommends the cracked section of the frame be electric welded. This is after locating the end of the crack and drilling that point using an 1/8" drill bit. Then v-groove the crack & weld.

[hydroshok]

Nice!Thanks. I have my owners manual so I'm going to look that up and next time someone tells me not to weld a frame; I can show them.

[hydroshok]

Any chance you want to post a picture of that? In my manual on page 64 under frames (150-350 models) it says see your dealer for detailed drilling and welding instructions...

[dunes450r]

frames definitely aren't hardened. all good info in here though. its not a deal killer, and you could even play it to your advantage, because while serious, it can be fixed relatively easily. i'd recommend some reinforcement in the area too

[hydroshok]

I just found this TSB from 2003: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/13-001-03.htm

I know even the dealer told me my frame was hardened on my 07 and not to weld on it, but I guess they were wrong again. Good thing I went ahead and welded it.

[o00otii]

Wow, this is good info. I always wondered how drilling holes in the frame affected strength. Seems like a crack could be a good negotiation point. And a good chance to reinforce the frame and know it is done right.

[Sutter1stgen]

I've noticed that the 70's chevy frames and these frames have a lot in common as for strength, and steering box placement, and overall shaping. Ive welded quite a few chevy frames where the steering box is. And even boxed amfew of them in on the more serious off roading ones that ran bigger tires. My frame on my truck was not cracked in that area but the plate that goes in between the box and frame was. I took it out and did as Chrysler instructed you to. Drill and v groove. Drilling stops the crack from spreading I was told by a fiberglass repairman once. So it seems to work on more than one material.
If your worried about it sagging and recracking put a piece of 3/16" flat on the underneath part of the c-channel. To act as a two layer bottom. But only weld on the edges, not across the front and back. And when you finished primer and paint, with a good undercoat later to keep rust out. That should make for for a long lasting repair, with the safty features of the frame still functioning.

Eric

[dpuckett]

I have the same issue on my 93 that is soon to cross 380k. I was thinking about welding the crack (it runs from the foremost bolt hole to the upper edge of the frame, it has spread as much as it's going to spread.) I have access to nearly unlimited 1/2x6" flat stock. I want to cut a piece of the 1/2" plate to the shape of the inside of the frame channel, weld it up, and drill new holes and reinstall the steering box plate with longer bolts. I also considered adding a piece on the top of the frame where it cracked to the edge. Am I on a wrong track? Or does this sound like a feasable plan of attack? It may be overkill, but I personally think when dealing with Dodge OEM design, there is no uch thing as overkill.

DP

[Sutter1stgen]

Boxing the frame in how you've said is quite common practice. But what I've don is taken quarter wall pipe or Dom tube that the longer bolts could go through cut 3/8" shorter than the outer measurement. Then drill all of you bolt holes out to the outside diameter of the pipe. Set each pipe where the bolts go on the frame. Tack them in place. The male sure they all are squared up. Then weld them all around on the inside of the frame. Then slide the back piece over the pipe and box the frame in. Now that you've cut the pipe shorter than the overall width of the boxed in section you have a nice recessed area to weld where the pipe meets the 1/2"x6 flat. Go out to the outside and do the same as well. When finished grind all high spots smooth so your fastener have a even surface to apply force to. The reason for the pipe is to keep the boxed section from sqeezing together when you go to tighten the bolts. And to help with a little stiffening.

Now heres the only bad part. In a head on collision or similar situation this may effect how the frame was designed to crumple and fold by the factory to keep you safe. Hope this helps. I can draw up a quick sketch of how it would work to make it more clear.