head bolt question ... a small one....

[jethro]

Engine on test stand now.... been running some regularly. New oil and filter. added marvel and sea foam. It had a touch of blow-by when I first got it but it has cleared up nicely.

I am going to add some cooling system cleaner I got at the ford place which is supposed to de-rust it in about 30 min of running. Then I will be taking loose the radiator and taking off the front to do the killer dowel pin, thermostat and water pump.
Will take off oil pan to weld up small hole.

here is my question.......
while I have it apart that far - would it be "a good idea" to re-torque the head bolts ? I think I have read that they are a torque-to-yield type bolt. I havnt messed with those kind before- could I guess that any torqueing past book torque would simple be further weakening the bolt ? (which I assume would HAVE to be the case) but my question- is -------- is it risky to do a re-torque to the book values (in the proper sequence of coarse....)

OR- would you say replace them with real bolts........($$$$) I plan to keep stock 180 HP + stock turbo- but may do a gov. spring. Wont be pulling big loads. Just an every-day general use utility truck...... (flatbed F-350 srw which will receive a 93 cummins 12 valve)

Also do yall think a chiltons book for dodge 3500 gives sufficient engine data - or do you thing the Geno's CD is way better.....
(just ordered geno's catalog)

thanks ahead of time for your insights ! ( I have worked on engines before but new to diesels )

Tim

[oldestof11]

Definitely get Geno's CD. You might get lost in a chitons.

I torqued my used headbolts to 130ft lbs. Factory is something like 30-60-90-+90*. I did it like that up to 90lbs. Then instead of 90*, I went 10lbs increments up to 120, then 5lbs to 130. I waited about an hour between torques after 100ft lbs. that was easy, I had a lot if mowing to do.

[CumminsPower59]

The OE head bolts have ALOT of stretch, but be careful. If you are leaving it stock(ish) I'd recommend leaving it as-is.

Jon, you got lucky, I broke one during re-torque before 115lb-ft. That ended up being a $300 mistake.

The FSM is a great tool to have at you're disposal. I was lucky to receive the CD as a gift, so I took it to work and printed the whole thing off so I'd have a paper copy in my truck.

[Tacoclaw]

I retorqued mine to 125ftlb, held 50psi on stock timing until I pulled it all for twins.

Pull the bolts, clean them on a wire wheel, oil the threads, then torque normally. I didn't do any special 5lb increments, just what it called for then to 125 instead of the 90*. I did a few laps after it sat to make sure it stayed there, then just ran it.

[Remps]

Cleaning the bolt holes with a thread tap before reinstalling cleaned and oiled bolts is a good idea.

[Tacoclaw]

^ that's not so easy to do unless you have the head off, for a simple retorque just go through the torque pattern one at a time and do the clean/oil/torque.

[jethro]

Maybe what I am thinking of is a VERIFICATION that none of the bolts are considerably low (backed out)
Those stock bolts seem pretty scarey- If I do it maybe I will go to 90.
Sounds like I will order the geno's CD ! Sometimes the Chilton's guides are a little vague in places.....

T

[Tacoclaw]

If you only torque them to 90ft/lbs they will be low.