Or should I just clean it up and run it? Supposedly has less than 100k miles, so if that's true, it must have been a plow truck, or ran alot of highway around here. Idk how long its sat either.
HE351CW Rebuild.
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HE351CW Rebuild.
by matthewh » Mon Apr 03, 2017 3:32 pm
Picked up this HE cheap today, spins freely, no shaft play what so ever. Only issue is the amount of corrosion it has, on everything. Impellers look in good shape, but the housings are rough. Don't mind throwing a rebuild kit at it if necessary, but could one tear it down, media blast the housings and center section, paint and reassemble? Will bore out the wastegate either way. Looking for a new solenoid as well, as this one is rough, and the wires were cut close to the housing, be hard to splice a new wire onto it
Or should I just clean it up and run it? Supposedly has less than 100k miles, so if that's true, it must have been a plow truck, or ran alot of highway around here. Idk how long its sat either.
Or should I just clean it up and run it? Supposedly has less than 100k miles, so if that's true, it must have been a plow truck, or ran alot of highway around here. Idk how long its sat either.
'93 W350 5spd Getrag, 4.10 gears, 83k miles and counting, Mods: LPPP AKA Ma Dually
'54 Dodge M37 6.2/700R4/205, 5.89 gears, WC rear axle
'54 Dodge M37 6.2/700R4/205, 5.89 gears, WC rear axle
- matthewh
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.
by BigPapa » Mon Apr 03, 2017 5:22 pm
That is some serious corrosion. Just reading through your post I was thinking "just clean it up and run it" but when I got down to the pics I don't know if I would or not.
The one I have on my '98 I bought from a fellow that thought it was bad and he sold it to me in pieces for $100. I put it back together, checked it out, and put it on. I have put over 100K on it since then with no issues.
As to the solenoid, I don't know if you'll be able to use it without some sort of "controller". I put a spring gate on mine, after boring it out, of course.
I ended up ditching the rod/spring and hooked a Yosh exhaust spring:
on the welded-on bracket and the shaft lever. It opens at almost 35psi boost. Don't know what drive pressure since I've never had a DP gauge.
The one I have on my '98 I bought from a fellow that thought it was bad and he sold it to me in pieces for $100. I put it back together, checked it out, and put it on. I have put over 100K on it since then with no issues.
As to the solenoid, I don't know if you'll be able to use it without some sort of "controller". I put a spring gate on mine, after boring it out, of course.
I ended up ditching the rod/spring and hooked a Yosh exhaust spring:
on the welded-on bracket and the shaft lever. It opens at almost 35psi boost. Don't know what drive pressure since I've never had a DP gauge.
Scott
1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
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