TOMTOM wrote:How much 50/50 are you dumping in and at what psi? what kit do u have? at what rpm do you kick it in?
TOMMY IGOSTOKNOW!!!!!
I'm running the CoolerMist
http://www.coolingmist.com/categories.aspx Vari-Cool system with two 18gph (@150psig) nozzles.
In this dyno run, 30% injection starts at approx 12psig boost quickly ramping up to 100% injection at 17psig boost. (As a daily driver, 17psig to start, and 30psig full on).
NOTE: My manual boost controller limits boost to 38psig. 150psig (pump) minus 38psig (boost) leaves 112psig fluid pressure to be divided between the two nozzles.
I've been told that I'm not injecting enough as it stands. I've never been able to bog the engine with too much flow although I can go through six gallons pretty quick if I dog it.
In my particular install, the 6gal tank, pump, and filter are located in the aluminum tool box in the truck bed (passenger's side). The OEM design 1/4" tubing runs to the drivers side of the bed, into the side of the bed, and down under the truck. From there it runs along the frame to the drivers front fender-well where it comes up just behind the battery. At that point, the line connects to the check-valve and then into a Tee where it splits to the two nozzles.
I'm thinking the OEM design 1/4" tubing is too long in this install and is presenting with notable pressure drop. Further, if I read it right, that check-valve requires 30psig to open and that alone is a BIG pressure drop. I have all ideas the nozzles are not flowing near the rated capacity and most likely are not atomizing very well.
I've a notion to up-size the tubing to at least 3/8" to fix that concern and then modify the check valve.
The goal of the check-valve is to prevent a tank mounted higher than the nozzle from draining into the engine by gravity while preventing boost from blowing back into the W/M system.
In a basic W/M system, this function falls to a standard solenoid valve (won't work with a proportional controller).
My initial thought is to soften the check-valve spring in the hopes of lowering the opening pressure to about five to ten pounds.
A back-up plan suggests using a Hobbs type pressure switch to open a solenoid at say . . . ten pounds boost. That would remove essentially all the pressure drop of a check-valve.
It seems that between the two, I should be able to gain 25psig or more at the nozzles.
BRUISER wrote:NIce.. I knew your truck had more in it..
I am still amazed at how clean your engine is..
I'm pleased with the numbers on straight diesel as I've only got PDR 190 injectors with the usual IP tweaks for additional fuel.
LOL!! I can't stand to work on an engine that leaves black turd on my hands! Wet it with straight kerosene, let soak, thoroughly pressure-wash and fix the leaks! MUCH nicer to play with.
I like how flat the HP graph is.
The transmission's next.