Rebulding my Front End

everything but the drivetrain

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Rebulding my Front End

Postby Begle1 » Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:09 pm

The alignment guy gave me odds of my ball joints lasting another month, and they weren't that good.


So what are the odds of me killing myself as I try to rebuild the suspension myself over the course of a weekend? I hear it's pretty intensive?

What do I need, should I do springs and shocks at the same time as the ball joints (in which case, what should I get) and how much should all the bushings, balls and the idler arm cost?

Or should I pay the shop the $600+ in labor to do it?

Thanks for any advice...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Jul 26, 2007 2:46 pm

Is there an advantage to poly bushings instead of rubber bushings?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby wannadiesel » Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:14 pm

If you've never done suspension work before, will be working alone, and HAVE to have the truck up Monday morning, you are better off paying somebody.

Poly bushings last almost forever and don't flex as much as rubber.
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

Best dyno: 408/844
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:47 pm

I've never done suspension work before, I can recruit a few guys to help if it's recommended, and I need to have the truck running sometime before August 22nd.

Is it possible to put a junkyard sway bar on the front end? Wasn't their talk about stiffening the front suspension by putting on RamVan arms on with the truck springs?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby wannadiesel » Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:52 pm

You will want help. You can add a swaybar if the truck does not have one.

Be careful.
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

Best dyno: 408/844
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Postby Begle1 » Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:23 pm

Where could I find a sway bar? Were they options from the factory in first gens, or do I need to get an aftermarket one?

Would one out a half ton be worth messing with?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby wannadiesel » Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:31 pm

Most 2wd's had a sway bar. AFAIK they are all the same, so hit the junkyard.
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

Best dyno: 408/844
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Postby Begle1 » Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:40 pm

Cool, now I finally have something good to go to the junkyard for. My blinker lever's been broken off for weeks...


Have you ever seen anybody actually put RamVan arms on their truck? Theoretically they'd lower the front end a little bit, and then they'd compress the stock spring farther than stock, giving a tighter grip to the road...

I really don't want to be a guiniea pig at this moment, though.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby wannadiesel » Sat Jul 28, 2007 6:31 am

Never seen that one done. Most guys are trying to raise the front so the truck sits level.
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

Best dyno: 408/844
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Postby BEARKILLER » Sat Jul 28, 2007 9:03 am

Without a proper shop, and proper tools, front suspension work is slow and tough.

Have several jacks, stands, a come-a-long, and maybe a porta-power on hand.

Don't tear the whole truck down at one time.

Cross the creek one rock at a time. :shock:

Do the worst ball joint one day, then the other another day.

Do the things that could get you killed first, then things like shocks later.

Every time you are close to the truck, DROWN every bolt, nut, and bushing, with the knocker-loose of your choice.

It helps a bunch to drive up on a good set of ramps, before beginning.

This gets things at a more workable height.

Don't take it to a shop; you won't learn a thing by letting someone else do it. :roll:
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
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Postby CAJUN 93 » Sat Jul 28, 2007 9:41 am

BEARKILLER wrote:Don't take it to a shop; you won't learn a thing by letting someone else do it. :roll:


probably the most useful piece of advice i've seen in months.

daryl
93 d350 5spd 3.54-bhaf,stg iv,banks intercooler,bosch185,16cm,pacbrake,4" straight exh,pump mods,366 spring,leece-neville alt.
hers- 93 d250 auto 3.54- pump mods only
ours- 93 w350 dually, auto, 3.54. stock for now
parts 93 d350 auto, 92 d250 auto.
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Postby PToombs » Sat Jul 28, 2007 5:21 pm

CAJUN 93 wrote:probably the most useful piece of advice i've seen in months.

daryl


Rates right up there with "don't drink beer and do shots of Southern Comfort"! :oops:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby wannadiesel » Sat Jul 28, 2007 6:41 pm

PToombs wrote:
Rates right up there with "don't drink beer and do shots of Southern Comfort"! :oops:
Well, not while changing your ball joints anyway... :lol:
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

Best dyno: 408/844
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:03 am

So what do I need in the way of special tools?

Do I need the special top-ball-joint socket, or does anybody know anything else that works?

Does the bottom ball joint need some special puller to extract, or can it be banged out with an air hammer?

Do we have a choice between greasable/ non-greaseable ball joints?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby PToombs » Sun Jul 29, 2007 5:03 pm

I did one of mine with the big hammer method. I think it was the bottom one. Then I got smart, took the top to work and did it in the press. No brainer on how to do that again! :roll: It just makes life so much easier. Check your a-arm bushings, or change them while you're there. Mine were shot, that was why I did it, then did the ball joints on the one side.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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