Power steering pulling back and forth

[IrishChamp]

I'll try that. So jack up the front, clock the wheels a little and then give them a spin? If it's difficult to spin, ie. Doesn't spin freely or for long the u joints are bad?
We simply reached down there and wiggled them by hand, the passenger side had a little in out play but neither of them had any slop.

Did you ever check the axle u-joints? Turn the front wheels a little and then spin them. If a u-joint is bad the wheel will spin hard.

[PToombs]

Yes, exactly. If the joints are seized it will turn hard, or hard, easy, hard, easy. With the wheels straight you don't notice the joints bound, because they're inline. When you turn it, the joint has to rotate, and can't if it's rusted solid.

[dunes450r]

how would an axle u-joint cause steering problems if the hubs were turned out? the axle shaft will then have no affect on the spinning tire, and the u-joint won't be turning

[PToombs]

Hey, you're right! I musta been blinded by the light. Although a bad joint will make it steer hard.

[little doug]

I have had what Pete described happen to me. If there is a real sticky cap in the u joint between the inner and outer axle,it will bind when on top or bottom.It doesn't matter whether the hubs are free or locked.You can twist the joint 90 degrees and see what happens,or grease the joint,if it has a jert...

[IrishChamp]

I got under the truck today and lubed all the metal nipples on the front, I think it was 9 spots, does that sound right?
Am I missing any spots? Anything anywhere else on the truck? Do I remove the wheels and get in anywhere? How to I get lube into the u joints front and back?
Well have to see if the steering feel is any better, the upper most spots took a scary amount of lube.

[little doug]

Kingpins = 4
Drag link = 2
Tie rod = 2
Front prop shaft slip yoke = 1

Rear prop shaft slip yoke = 1

Prop shaft and axle U jouints may or may not be greasable, If you have a bad one it needs replaced. If it has a jert in the cross or cap and is good, it needs greased when you change oil.

[IrishChamp]

Well it sounds like I got almost everything but honestly I don't know what most of those terms refere to. Is there a how to video Something around here on maintaining grease points?

Kingpins = 4
Drag link = 2
Tie rod = 2
Front prop shaft slip yoke = 1

Rear prop shaft slip yoke = 1

Prop shaft and axle U jouints may or may not be greasable, If you have a bad one it needs replaced. If it has a jert in the cross or cap and is good, it needs greased when you change oil.

[PToombs]

King pins are the same as ball joints (sorta kinda, before I get beat to death )
Drag link is the arm that goes from the pitman arm on the steering box to the arm on the front axle.
Tie rod is the steering arm that goes from 1 side to the other.
Prop is short for propeller, or drive shaft.

And it's actually a "zerk" fitting, the ball type that is the most common grease fitting.

You should have all that info in the owners manual, it you have it.

[IrishChamp]

I know I got the tie rod and all steering linkages. if I'm understanding what the prop shaft slip yoke grease point is (hard to find inside the joint on front and rear axles) then ill look for those, I think I need to pick up a grease needle to get at those correct? then I think I've got them all.
how about wheel bearings? I've read procedures for newer trucks where the wheels and brakes need to be removed to access some grease spots and to repack the bearings.
I do have the manual, I was looking at it tonight but it was unclear on exact locations. I think I'm figuring it all out slowly.
kind of a side thought but I'm wondering if I should flush the coolant system, I saw theres a spot to hook a hose to the block and another on the radiator.
also, how often should the AC be recharged? I believe the refrigerant is original.
I think I'm going to order some 75w90 amsoil for the diffs and t case, I think those are over due, I'll have to look at my receipts but I'm going to do them regardless. all this and I''m having the transmission rebuild next week and looking for a camper shell and fixing the paint on the roof.
ARG, I'm spending as much as I paid for this truck on maintenance this winter/spring.
I guess its still better than a financing a vehicle and I should be in good shape for a while, knock on wood.

King pins are the same as ball joints (sorta kinda, before I get beat to death )
Drag link is the arm that goes from the pitman arm on the steering box to the arm on the front axle.
Tie rod is the steering arm that goes from 1 side to the other.
Prop is short for propeller, or drive shaft.

And it's actually a "zerk" fitting, the ball type that is the most common grease fitting.

You should have all that info in the owners manual, it you have it.

[PToombs]

The fitting on the slip joint is right on the outside of the short section. The 1 for the u-joint itself, if it has one, is in the corner of the cross, or the center face. If the joint is original it may not have a fitting.

[IrishChamp]

Thanks!

The fitting on the slip joint is right on the outside of the short section. The 1 for the u-joint itself, if it has one, is in the corner of the cross, or the center face. If the joint is original it may not have a fitting.

[slow_90firebird]

Your wheel bearings are not so easy to service. First you need to remove the locking hub assembly, then you need to get a special socket to take the spindle nut off. It is a complex process. I have not done it yet on my dodge, but I did on my 78 chevy with the D44 axle, i assume its the same process.

When you figure how to get it all apart the bearings need to be cleaned and inspected, repacked with new grease, and reinstalled. Knowin how to properly seat them and torque the spindle nut is very important to safety so ask us if you plan to do this and someone will tell you how to set a beraing.

----

As for the axle lube and all that, yeah its good to pull the covers and change it at some point. Its not critical though. Just take the fill plugs out and make sure they are full untill the oil comes out the fill hole.

IMHO (some will disagree with me) dont waste your money on synthetic axle lube. Your dana axles wont know the difference they could run with maple syrup in there for all they care. Just use whatever the cheapest walmart sells, and if your rear has a posi make sure to get the little squirt bottle of posi-trac additive. Sometimes its better to use 85w140 in the rear axle too. Also, the D60 front takes 3 qt approx. I put in a full quart of lucas and 2 qt of 80w90 and that took care of my minor leaking at the axle seals when using 4wd.

[IrishChamp]

Thanks.
I'll have to give some more thought to the bearings. I'd like to get it done though, I'm sure they will need it eventually.
I already ordered some amsoil 75/90 gear lube, enough for the diffs and np205, I'll have 2 or 3 quarts left over so I probably waisted a few bucks, I just didn't want to come up short. I didn't check Walmart but all the local places sold gear oil for $6.5 to $10 per quart before tax and amsoil was $12 a quart shipped including a 6 month dealer membership. I figured I'd rather go with something better than the cheapest which would have cost atleast $70 to $100 for gear lube and friction modifier. With amsoil I don't need a friction modifier and a little peace of mind and possible better protection and performance is worth $30 to $50 IMO especially if I can change out or supplement them less frequently.

Ps. I didn't read the fine print of the dealer cost thing but if anyone wants amsoil for a discount I'd be more than happy to place the order, especially if they're local or someone that has taken time to help me out!

Your wheel bearings are not so easy to service. First you need to remove the locking hub assembly, then you need to get a special socket to take the spindle nut off. It is a complex process. I have not done it yet on my dodge, but I did on my 78 chevy with the D44 axle, i assume its the same process.

When you figure how to get it all apart the bearings need to be cleaned and inspected, repacked with new grease, and reinstalled. Knowin how to properly seat them and torque the spindle nut is very important to safety so ask us if you plan to do this and someone will tell you how to set a beraing.

----

As for the axle lube and all that, yeah its good to pull the covers and change it at some point. Its not critical though. Just take the fill plugs out and make sure they are full untill the oil comes out the fill hole.

IMHO (some will disagree with me) dont waste your money on synthetic axle lube. Your dana axles wont know the difference they could run with maple syrup in there for all they care. Just use whatever the cheapest walmart sells, and if your rear has a posi make sure to get the little squirt bottle of posi-trac additive. Sometimes its better to use 85w140 in the rear axle too. Also, the D60 front takes 3 qt approx. I put in a full quart of lucas and 2 qt of 80w90 and that took care of my minor leaking at the axle seals when using 4wd.

[IrishChamp]

The steering seemed temperamental this morning, it was colder then it's been lately. When the truck warmed up it got better.
I'm dropping it off to have the transmission rebuilt tonight so I'll have him look at the front end and then do some more looking of my own next weekend when I get the truck back.