Ok... enough is enough. Need some experienced advice

[GeneralC]

I have two items that are driving me absolutely crazy. I am in the process of replacing my tie rod ends and steering shaft on my 91. Ok, the first issue I have is the tie rod ends were a bi$$h to get out. Had to use heat. Well I go to install my purty new shiny moog parts and they WILL NOT turn in far enough. I have heated the tie rod up itself and then tried turning them in. All to no avail. It would probably be entertaining watching be twist and turn like I'm having sex with this thing or something. Im stumped. Second issue is the pin that goes through the steering shaft at the steering box will not budge either. I've beat and banged and screwed around long enough. How in god's creation do these damn things come out? I've also heated the area around the pin as well. Not much though didnt wanna burn a seal or anything in the box itself. Please any help is much appreciated. Thank you

[oldestof11]

What are you replacing that coupling with? Or are you rebuilding it?

IF you are going to replace the joint with a U-joint, then you can do what I did. I cut 2 slots in a V shape to relieve the pin of some of the bore. About 1/4 of the top directly touching the pin was removed.

Beyond that, I couldn't get the pucker to budge.

[Tacoclaw]

On the tie-rod ends, it's the actual connecting rod itself you can't get the ends far enough into, not the spindles, right? Assuming there are still threads showing on the tie-rod end itself, you may have boogered the threads taking it out. I haven't messed with mine for a while, but don't they have a split at the end with a bolt that pinches them together? You could try opening up the ends some with a brass hammer.

Any more details on the specifics on your tie rod ends? How far it goes in and stuff like that.

[PToombs]

If you have been heating and beating on the pin above the gearbox, buy a seal kit and replace the input seal. I drove my pin out, and it went easy, and then when I started the truck the oil came pouring out. If you have to drive on it, put a wood or steel block behind it to hold it while beating, it takes the strain off it.

[GeneralC]

On the tie rod ends I still have about 3/4" of threads left on each side. All I need is about another quarter inch and itll be the correct length. But they just wont budge. The threads aren't screwed up that I can tell. It's almost like the tie rod itself is tapered inside. As far as the steering box rebuild kit, what is the part number and where can I get it? Also, how hard is it to put new seals in? Never attempted this before so I'm concerned I'm a little over my head.

[CumminsPower59]

I replaced the tie rod ends on my 92, the old ones were a pain in the arse to get out too. I took the whole tie rod off the truck, mounted it in a vice, with the side that I was gonna work on 8 or so inches from the vice. A couple hours later, I got the new ends threaded in. I used alot of heavy oil when working the new ends back in, working them in 1/2 turn at a time, back off 1/4 turn, then another 1/2 turn in until I got it close to where it needed to be. I used Moog joints also, but found out that the heads of the tie rod ends were much larger than stock so it measured out longer than original. I used the tape measure to set the alignment to as close to 0 toe in and toe out as I could.

Also, when I upgraded to a Borgeson steering shaft, that blasted roll pin holding the joint to the gear box can be a real pain in the arse. Took me several hours of hitting a punch with a BF'n hammer to get it worked loose. I couldn't tell ya which side it came out of, the hole may be tapered, but I am not sure. I was almost to the point of torching it off when it finally moved.

Hope this helps ya, I have been where you are at and I know it's a pain

[GeneralC]

Thank you. I'm glad I'm not the only one having trouble with supposedly "simple" stuff lol. The tie rods need to go in about another 1/4" and it would be right where it was but they are stuck tight. I'd say i'll drive it to alignment shop and let them deal with it. They probably know a trick I don't. As far as the pin goes, I've not beat on it for hours yet but I did for 20 minutes or so. Just decided I was getting no where and wanted some advice before I broke something. Evidently I might have already broke the seal in the steering box...

[oldestof11]

On the knuckle for the steering, buy this:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Safety-Ra ... ,6632.html

Then cut above the pin and spread the metal until it comes out. Then do this:



The screw on the splined end is a set screw, the opposite side you can either weld or drill through. Took me 3 hours to get the pin out, 1 hour to disassemble and reassemble the steering shaft. Best thing you can do to tighten up your steering.

Full write-up here:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... p?t=93363-

[CumminsPower59]

You're welcome. It took quite some time to get that roll pin out of the steering shaft, I did put a little heat to it, probably not the best idea, but it worked. Funny thing is, the gear box input seal was leaking pretty good, it doesn't leak anymore Work them tie rod ends back and forth and get it as close as you can, then get it aligned...

[GeneralC]

On the knuckle for the steering, buy this:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Safety-Ra ... ,6632.html

Then cut above the pin and spread the metal until it comes out. Then do this:



The screw on the splined end is a set screw, the opposite side you can either weld or drill through. Took me 3 hours to get the pin out, 1 hour to disassemble and reassemble the steering shaft. Best thing you can do to tighten up your steering.

Full write-up here:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... p?t=93363-

That looks like a really good solution but I'm not much of a welder. I'm gonna try to rebuild this shaft but if it doesnt work out ill just buy a borgeson. As bad as I hate to...

[Alec]

This may be too late to be helpful, but what I have done in the past take the old ends, cut a couple of slots in them with an angle grinder, to make them like a poor-mans threading tap, and then just work them in & out with penetrating oil, etc. to cut through all of the rust & gunge built up in the rod . . . It takes patience, but it is worth doing, so that you can actually adjust the darn thing in the future after the initial alignment.

I drilled out the roll pin, using progressively larger bits. That was a PITA.

[oldestof11]

On the knuckle for the steering, buy this:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Safety-Ra ... ,6632.html

Then cut above the pin and spread the metal until it comes out. Then do this:



The screw on the splined end is a set screw, the opposite side you can either weld or drill through. Took me 3 hours to get the pin out, 1 hour to disassemble and reassemble the steering shaft. Best thing you can do to tighten up your steering.

Full write-up here:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... p?t=93363-

That looks like a really good solution but I'm not much of a welder. I'm gonna try to rebuild this shaft but if it doesnt work out ill just buy a borgeson. As bad as I hate to...

Don't need to weld. I put a 1/4" grade 8 through in the top section. I will be welding later when I visit my bro.